$50 mod thread

Ok that sounds like a switchmode boost converter to up the voltage when you run a bunch of LEDs in series. that seems a bit of a waste to me. I usualy run a few in series with a resistor to make it work off of 12v and then if more LEDs are needed I run more strings in paralel. you can run as many LEDs as you need that way with out the boost converter; though I supose the small amount of juice wasted in the converter isn't a big deal when you have an alternator. can you post a link to the 'avr led booster'? the name makes me think they use the same atmel avr microcontrollers that I put in everything. (like your tx500)
i will try to track down that link for you... i think i have it at home... i usually do the same as you are saying here, just run a set of them off a resister and then if i need more tap another line off the power line with another resister... i do this alot of time on undertail turns on rockets... so they can get rid of all the crap that hangs down...
Bar End Mirrors

Mirror - $17.05 shipped for one ($29.00 for 2)
3/8 Chrome Hole Plugs - 2 for $2

I bought my mirror from commandospecialties on ebay. It is the weird euro shaped one.


First I removed the old mirror(s). Then I plugged the holes in the control housings with the 3/8 in chrome hole plugs.

Then I used compressed air to remove the grip and then used a screwdriver to remove the platic plug from the end of the bars. Then I used the air to put the grip back on. I didn't do the throttle side, so I don't really know what that would entail.

Then I used and exacto knife to cut a hole in the end of the grip. I started with a small one in the center and then made it bigger, using the inside of the bar as a guide, trying to leave a little extra to seal against the mirror.

Then I put the mirror in the hole and tightened it up so it wouldn't fall out. I adjusted it as best I could in the garage and then tightened it up so it would not move.

The states I live in only require one mirror, so that is all I'm using. Looks pretty good with the polished gauges.
I need to sort out LED brake/running/signal/plate lights myself for my project. Was looking at some flexible LED strips that might do the trick. Will be hitting you guys up for wiring help when the time comes :)
Tim said:
I need to sort out LED brake/running/signal/plate lights myself for my project. Was looking at some flexible LED strips that might do the trick. Will be hitting you guys up for wiring help when the time comes :)
dont know if this helps but i was just in pep boys (rice section) they have a strip of flexable red LEDs but IDK how you would get them to be running and brake.
Not sure if anyone would be interested in this light but I used it on the scooter I built up last summer. Nice small package and integrates running, brake and turn signals. Can't remember if it has a plate light or not, but I think it does. I have the scooter put away for the winter right now so can't go check it.

Derek4Real3 said:
dont know if this helps but i was just in pep boys (rice section) they have a strip of flexable red LEDs but IDK how you would get them to be running and brake.
I used a trailer light with only 2 wires as my tail/brake light. I put an extra resistor inline with the wire for the tail light. this reduces the brightness and then the brake light wire has no extra resistor causing the light to be brighter when I brake. both hook up to the + wire on the trailer light.
i did the same on my brothers chopper tail lights... ill snap some pics next time i am over there...

cable cover mod
cost 22 bucks... order some cable covers from
side entry work just as well... that is what i rock on my HD...
5/16 in the mylar chrome will cover most cables and wires

all you need to do is wipe down your old cables real well... now you can order this wiht side entry (used the black on my harley.. LOOKS SICK AS HELL, like black braided cables) but on this i need the bling, ordered the chrome... on this when ever i cut it, i use a lighter to heat the end and then while it is gooey i touch my finger to it... this just seals it all up so that it does not unravel... dad taught me this years ago to fix our ski ropes when we had to make them longer... thenwip tie, pull it tight, zip tie again.... looks awesome!
Tim also sugested using some shrink wrap on the ends instead, that woul dbe super clean as well




and the black on my bob:
brake line:


thats a cool looking way to cover those ugly cables.
i think i'm going to do that, was going to use wire loom
but this looks better.
awesome job on the cafe in the pics.
any way good idea.

I went to harbor freight and picked up a 9.99 roller dolly. I used scrap wood and extra screws to screw wood onto the dolly to build up the height. My total cost was $10, but even if you had to buy wood and screws should not cost more than $15 or $20.

To get the bike on I just lean and slide the dolly underneath it and then push the bike up and onto the dolly. My bike was really sturdy and secure. I stripped it down to the frame while on the dolly.
This is just an add on to JRKs cable cover mod. I dont have pics but I'll post some later. I had reall ugly, cracked, and drie rotted cable (clutch, tach, speedo,) I couldn't bend them much without braking the outer shell. Other than that they worked fine. So instead of buying new ones I broke off all theouter shell cleaned the metal tubing and slid it through 10mm shrink wrap. Used my heat gun and they look like new. This with JRKs cable cover mod will give you moisture protection and abrasion protection for less than what you would pay for new cables. And with JRKs they look freekin sweet.
Not sure if this classifies as a 'mod', but it's a brake light/license plate mount I fabbed up.

Bought a small piece of sheet metal and a metal strip from Home Depot. Total cost was around 10 bucks (shrink wrapped the wires cost around fiddy cents!)

I know it's probably been done to death, but here's my homemade manometer. Board I found in the alley. Tube from Home Depot. Drill holes, zip tie, fill with transmission fluid. (i had to buy the adapters for my carbs off ebay). Total cost was around 30 bucks.

My buddy's mod to his cherry as hell 74 cb500 four. Cost=free

We built a workbench in my garage. Total cost was a tad over 50. I scratched together as much wood as I could.


As it sits today (it's winter, cut me some slack)
Useful Idiot said:
Not sure if this classifies as a 'mod', but it's a brake light/license plate mount I fabbed up.

Bought a small piece of sheet metal and a metal strip from Home Depot. Total cost was around 10 bucks (shrink wrapped the wires cost around fiddy cents!)

if you have seen my CB360 thread, i did this but i used an old 32 ford tailight assembly and some angle iron... granted it snapped.... but how is this one holding up? has it broke? i think im going to do how you did it
Well I really didn't want to unveil this until my bike was done but what the hell. I am sure all of you guys have seen when people riddle the front sprocket cover with holes.

I took it one step further to help my bike stand out a bit. Check it out! Took me about 5 hours between the dremel and hand files. I painted it strictly to see how it would look. It is still rough and need to clean up a few areas with the file. The spade will look a little goofy in the pictures because the piece has such an odd slope to it. BUT, it looks awesome in person, I am pretty proud of my creativity on this one. Cost about $20 for the specialty (precision) file set, and maybe $8 the dremel bits.



It is going to look SICK when I get the bike back together!
$1.99 mod to save lots of money.
This is kinda long, but if you consider doing this you should read the whole thing.
Ok, this is something that can save you time and money. I can say that it has saved me several thousand dollars! This is no BS. Instead of going to the emergency room for stitches use crazy glue. I cut myself all the time. My son use to play hockey. He cut his face just about every weekend (fights, sticks, ice whatever). Stitches leave marks when healed and the wounds heal slow. Crazy glue is fast and easy and leaves no marks when healed. there are no stitches to remove. Emergency room visits are expensive and takes lots of time.

You have to make damn sure it is clean. Then make damn sure it is clean again. Then clean it again. I hate to repeat my self, but make sure its clean! You don't want to seal up the wound with germs trapped in there or else things could get ugly. You do need to be current on tetnus shot. I believe it is every 4-8 yrs. Call your doctor to find out. Anyhow, I use batadine (provadine/iodine) to flush the wound several times. Make sure no tendons, ligaments or arteries have been severed. Tendons/Ligaments are white. Arteries, it will be pumping blood out like crazy. You could still have cut a ligament and not know it. Make sure you can move the joint, finger, foot or what ever without any problems. If you suspect that you have cut one of these, get you but to the doctor. Most of all, use common sense.

Make sure to have a pair of tweezers or something to help you close the wound after you have applied the glue (you can very easly glue your finger to your wound)
Very carefully open the crazy glue (the old stiff works better than the crzy glue gel) apply a good amount directly inside the wound and carefully close together with the tweezers. Hold for about two/three minutes until the glue sets. After the glue stes I apply a small amount on the outside of the wound for extra measure. leave the wound unbandaged. Apply a splint if the wound is near a joint or where it can be moved or bumped. It is very important not to move that area because crazy glue is not flexable. it is brittle and will crack. You may need to re-apply glue every two or three days as your skin renews and sheds itself, or if the glue were to crack. This is common. The wound is sealed and will heal much much faster than if it were sutured. It is very important to make sure the wound is clean because you are sealing it up.
Now, just let it heal over the next few days. No stitches to remove and no ER visit and no bills.

I've done this for the past 20 years. When my son played minor hockey he was constantly cut. The teams had no team doctors. I cleaned the wound, used crazy glue, and he could be back out on the ice in less than 5-10 minutes.
Later, when he played in the OHL the team had doctors that stitched him. He never had any scars until he started getting stitches.

Recently my mother sliced a finger with a kitchen knife. She called the doctors office and they told her to go to the ER. She called the ER. The ER told her the wait would be at least 2 hours. She asked for a cost estimate. They said it would be between $300-$500.
She called me. She didn't wan't to move it because she got the bleeding stopped and she was afraid moving it would hurt. But we had to open it up and make sure no ligaments were cut and so we could get it cleaned. If the wound is already closed off it has to be opened back up for these reasons. There were no signs of ligament damage (No visual signs in the wound and she could move it full range with out too much trouble). We applied crazy glue and held the wound together with 2 tooth picks until the glue set (the glue really doesn't burn if at all but, whatever you are holding the wound closed with it is important to use something with out much surface area. It offers less to get accidently glued to the wound ). I made a splint out of a straw and taped it to her finger. She had to re apply the glue two days later because it looked like it was starting to let loose. This is common because the skin is sheding it self and it looks like the glue is letting loose. There is less trauma to the area (no injections or needles) and therefor the pain associated with stitches that is experienced later in the day/evening (thumping) is far less. After 4 days the cut was healed and she removed the splint. She said that she has never had a cut heal so fast. At first she was unsure, now she is very, very glad she didn't go to the doctor.

My family doctor says that the chemical in crazy glue is the same as what's in suture glue only it does not have the flexability of the real stuff (Suture glue is available in the Er for suturing instead of stitches. It is mainly used on children or on peoples faces). Liquid Bandage is not the same and will not work for suturing>
The main thing is you should use common sense. If you are not 100% certain, call your doctor or go to the ER.
Top Bottom