Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I managed to score a decent and unmolested R100S today. It's gonna need the gamut of maintenance stuff, carb clean/rebuild, wiring clean up and paint. It runs too poor to ride, I'm crossing my fingers that the transmission is solid. This will be the winter project... Paint will come in the spring and I'll have a long time to plan what I'm going to do.
Ha. It photographs better than it is... but again it won’t take nearly as much effort as the R75/7 I did a few years ago. I was scraping grease and oil off that thing for weeks with a putty knife and a bucket of kerosene. I have everything I need inbound to get it mechanically straight. (Unless I uncover something unexpected)
If it goes really well I might have to have someone else do the paint over the winter so that it’s done when spring rolls around.
Who gets the idea that RTV is so great? I've found it all over my latest GL1000. Even clear silicone used in place of a water joint gasket, and orange high-temp just globbed-on where no seal was needed. Lots of fun to get out of bowl gasket grooves. I've found carb cleaner, a rough cotton rag, and patience the best tools for it.
Bings are rebuilt aside from having to order a new float needle and left choke cable as that snapped while removing the nut that pinched it. After that arrives I’ll get the float levels set and the carbs installed and see how it runs and check the timing. Then I’ll move on to the maintenance and clean up.
I emailed for a paint quote from the shop that painted my ‘69 Triumph. If it’s reasonable like the other paint job then I’ll just let them do it. Bonus because they can actually do the pinstripes properly. Which is something that I cannot do worth a chit.
Here’s a pic of one of the clean Bing 40 carbs mounted back up.
I’m having to replace one of the side covers as it is just too crappy to fool with fixing. I’m hoping to paint the side covers and rear fender this weekend. They are just satin black so I’m just going to use a 2k satin black spray bomb from Eastwood as those work great and saves me a ton of clean up. I’m still waiting on a paint quote for the rest of the body parts.
Have the day off work... decided to prep the side covers for paint. The one on the left is original. The one on the right is is a nice repro I picked up from Capital Cycle.
I’m going to prep the rear fender too. It’s already cold here so I’ll have to do the spray outside and bring it in to flash between coats.
This is what I’ll be using to paint the satin black parts. It’s a great single stage 2k paint with the right satin sheen for these parts. And it’ll be tougher than what bmw used.
I know you are a God of garage painting, so how would you compare this Eastwood paint with things like VHT Epoxy paint, specifically for the mere-mortal painter?
I know you are a God of garage painting, so how would you compare this Eastwood paint with things like VHT Epoxy paint, specifically for the mere-mortal painter?
I love VHT Epoxy paint... its my go to for chassis parts that aren't / can't get powder coated but I'd not use it on body panels.
The Eastwood stuff lays nice as nice as any of the competing 2k paint cans. I've only used their 2K stuff, my buddy did a '48 Indian Chief in the same stuff and it looks amazing.
I got out today and did the engine and transmission fluids. Fluids looked good no metal in there. The oil plug was rusty and disgusting so I quickly sand blasted and nickel plated it...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
