bought! now a project!


i can only get it to screw in from slotted end.

in this post

he has it facing the opposite direction.

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figured it out! i just grinded the screw down to have a little more grab and it worked. thanks Sonreir
bought! now a project!

So a quick little update.

I ran into a problem with mikesxs rims.... got me pretty upset. Since I don't know anything about truing rims or conditions of rims I decided to buy a new set from mikesxs. Bought both of rims to stock pile my parts until I could save enough to get them trued and mounted.

When I bought the rims they looked normal to me since I didn't have a trained eye for these sort of things. When I went to get them trued the owner showed me that both the rims were slightly bent and it would cause a hazard on the road and wobble. He told me my best bet is ask for a refund. (30 dollars down the drain just for looking at rim.)Well I'm sure out of luck on that since I bought it a couple months back. And their return policy is 37 days :(

What upset me is how can you run a business selling bent rims. They are brand new. I asked them for an exchange for a cheaper price, but haven't heard back from them yet. The rim has never been mounted before so I hope they will accept my offer.

Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. I don't have much money for expensive rims, just trying to work with what I have.

I guess this was just a rant. Although I'm happy the guys at the tire shop were honest and told me Instead of mounting them and me finding out the wrong way.

I'll try to get some pictures tonight.

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I've bought MikesXS rims myself in the past and haven't seen this problem. Will be good to see pics.
Just by looking at it it doesn't seem like there is anything wrong but if a professional show u, u can tell

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I have bought a bunch of rims from MikesXS. They have all been fine - though they are NOT the same quality as say - a new SUN rim from Buchanan's. All of the ones I have bought had an unusually bad area where welded together, some actually pretty bad. This may be the problem with your rims. A good wheel builder should know the difference between a bent rim and the welded joint. I have built maybe a hundred+ wheels and reckon to have a fair idea of what I am doing. I true to the inside surfaces of the flanges where the tire bead mounts. If you do this as well it should be pretty evident if this is your issue. Most of the issues I have had net out to a short low spot right at the weld where it was ground down by the maker, and larger high areas on either side of the weld. The length of the distortion is too short to correct by spoke tension, so I have taken a hand file and "straightened" the affected area enough to true the rim acceptably. This was a LOT of work, and quite onerous considering the new rims, but you get what you pay for. I would say I have spent over an hour on at least one rim with a very sharp, very coarse hand file, truing spokes, filing, truing spokes, filing - you get the idea. It has not kept me from continuing to do business with MikesXS, including buying more rims. The prices are super cheap for a very nice quality rim - though whether or not having to go to some extra trouble is worth it depends on who you ask I suppose.

Try truing your wheels keeping this in mind and perhaps you will meet with success. Keep in mind that in the end, it does not matter how true the rim is, but how true the TIRE is, so true to the inside of the flanges.
Thanks for the reply guys. I tried to get pictures but it's hard to take picture of the bends. And I could really only find them on one wheel. Should I go to a other shop and have them true and mount the tires? Do you think this would cause a problem for me with the little bend that it has?

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xb33bsa said:
onerous,right, like thats a word

Steady now XB, I looked that up just for you!

Great pic -
Yep, that be a bend all right - not what I have experienced from Mikes. If that is the worst of it, you may be able to bend it back. Just a wild guess not being able to see it in person, but maybe you could clamp it between a nice flat surface and some 2 x 4's with that bent bit hanging over the edge. Take another wood block and a mallet and coax it back into shape. Patience and a pertinacious mindset will be required! No doubt XB would find it a (burdensome, arduous, strenuous, difficult, hard, severe, heavy, back-breaking, oppressive, weighty, uphill, challenging, formidable, laborious, Herculean, exhausting, tiring, taxing, demanding, punishing, grueling, exacting, wearing, wearisome, even - no, I ain't gonna say it) task, but you might avoid having to buy a new rim.

That looks like maybe it got dropped just right or maybe crushed somehow, but the degree of bend looks pretty mild in the pic so maybe bending it back is possible - most aluminum alloys do not like being bent back and forth very much. Also, a bend in that direction is much less important than a bend that would impact how concentric it is. And keep in mind also that the tire will have a big impact on "averaging out" imperfections in the rim. You may have seen car wheels with pretty severe damage that rolled perfectly smooth - and while the same thing occurs on motorcycle tires, your skinny bike tire will not be near as forgiving. Get it as straight as you can, mount the tire and then check how true the tire runs - maybe you will be pleasantly surprised.
the thing about bending it back seems too strenuous for me to handle.
I plan to sell the rims probably 100 for both.

mike offered to sell me a new set or rims at a discounted price of 25% off. should i take him up on this offer? or should i save some money and opt to get some excel rims?

i totatlly would try to mount the tire on the rim but thats an extra 20 dollars to mount the tires.
Went ahead and bought wheel from mikes. And they just arrived what do u guys think of them trying to see if this is a bend ..?
I'm back!

So when putting into front Tire it doesn't seem to be allighed straight.

The manual shows the spacer on the right side of the bike. Is this how the wheel is suppose to sit or am I missing something ?

I haven't tightened anything up yet but looks like I'm missing something

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it is possible you have a bent stanchion tube and that should be something that is verified bent or not
most of them are actually bent from my experience
its a very easy check to perform as well
@xb33bsa I went ahead and checked if they were bent with a straight edge and they both check out! Should I switch the axle to the other side?

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I went ahead and got my rear sprocket assembled. I'm wondering if u can actually tighten the 4 bolts? When I try to tighten the bolts they just keep spinning.

I'm not sure if the front looks straight or not... if you pan down it doesn't but if you look straight at the bike, it does.

My research shows that some people switch the axle to the opposite side.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.


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In that last pic of the front end, it looks as though the lowers taper in. It may just be the angle of the photo. If you loosen the axle pinch bolts, do the legs stay were they are?
imtyson said:
@xb33bsa I went ahead and checked if they were bent with a straight edge and they both check out! Should I switch the axle to the other side?

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well checking with a straighht egdge is the hard way and doesnt really do a very good job i mean checked them with a straight edge when all apart ?
i dunno all you have to do is hold the dlider secure in a vice with some wood or somethinmg and then you rotate the stanchion tube 99% of the time the bend is just at the lkower triple and it will be very esasy to observe this way, even just a few thousands can be observed by eye
if that is not a bent fork stanchion i will eat my hat
unless of course it pops back into position when you drop out the axle
like i said you cant check with a straight edge, drop the forks out of the clamps get them on the bench check them with the method i show
Lots of great suggestions so far, so let me add to them.

Is the gap between the fork leg and tire the same both sides? It should be (normally). Start by checking that the wheel rims are exactly spaced the same each side compared to the spoke flanges. Unlike old Brit bikes, Japanese bikes rarely have an offset.

Align the front and rear wheels preferably with two long straight pieces of angle or dead straight box section tube. Then take a long bubble level and see how far off the rear wheel is from Vertical and repeat on the front and see if bot wheels are vertical. If there is a significant discrepancy there, and ther probably will be, the next thing to do is to determine if it's the back end the front end or both.

With front forks, there are a few ways to check them. My "go to" is to place two long pieces of tube horizontally. One between the triple clamps and the other as low on the fork legs as possible. Check them from above and you will be able to see anything more than about 1 degree or 1mm discrepancy.

A better check is to remove the forks and take the sliders off, leaving just the tubes in the triples. A quick and dirty at that point is to loosen the clamp bolts and rotate each leg and see if the bottom end rotates or describes a large circle (if it's bent). Check also the gap between the legs at the top and at the bottom to see if they have been pinched in at the bottom.

Take out both legs put them together on a flat surface and roll them and see ig one or both are bent. That can be eye opening.

IF the legs are straight but they are not parallel in the triple clamps, the triples are bent and usually on our old bikes, they can be tweaked back into shape and you do that by bending them too far in the opposite direction and then tweak them back to straight. You must go too far (over correct first).

If the forks are perfect then either the frame or swingarm are distorted.

Remove the swingarm and put the axles back in and mount the ends at the spindle in Vee blocks and see if the wheel end is parallel and teh side plates are vertical. It is not uncommon to have a swingarm twisted and the end plates twist as well, so that if the side arms are parallel, they pull back out of alignment when bolted tight. Ends must be exactly perpendicular to the axle.

If that's all OK, it may just be wheel spacers off a different bike or fitted on the wrong sides of back or front or both wheels.

I know that sounds like a lot of things to check, but you need your bike to track straight. The alternative is to find a GMD computrack place to meausre and straighten the frame, but the wheel spacers and fork legs etc still have to be checked as described.
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