CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
MiniatureNinja said:
im glad someone got something out of it! should have an update this weekend too!


Lol, me too, but you are doing a much better job of building a bike than I am. My goal has always been "lets get this fucker to move itself down the road" and everything else has just been gravy (which has mostly been an education in combustion engines and a lot of skinned knuckles.)
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Ok. Oil pickup has been modified. all new oil seals where cracking the cases wasn’t a requirement. I also balanced the wheels with some of those reusable brass spoke weights. I love those things. They are great.


And I finally JB welded over the shorty weld job on the rear muffler (had a shitty local muffler shop do it and there were a lot of leaks in the weld. I’d been telling myself I was going to reword it, but I never got to a friend with a welder to do the job. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it worked. Should have done it a while ago instead of telling myself to wait until I could do it right.


Also back to 10w40.


Thanks to everyone who helped get me to this point. I’m really feeling like I’m starting to get a hang for this after 8 years of fuckwithery. Eric, PJ, Sonrier. I’m sure there are others thanks so much. Bike pulls to rear line through all 6 (ok,5) gears for the first time since I picked the thing up from the retired Honda tech in 2009.




P.S. I lost my header heat shield (not on a ride, but it is lost) if anyone is sitting on one and would rather have beer money, let me know. I’m heading to the moto graveyard next week to find another passenger foot peg and a replacement shield, but I’m not sure I’ll be quite that lucky.
 

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Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Rode across town (read all of Phoenix) yesterday to get to a beginners corner in class at the local moto school. No one ever taught me to ride (P.O. gave me a 5 minute lesson in 2009 when I bought the bike.) that was useful. How did I not know about turning your head (probably should have read a book or two)


Anyway. 25 miles there at WOT and 25 miles back. No problems. The class was sitting on top of hot pavement for 5 minutes between 1 minute 25 mob turn exercises. The few times I needed to kill the engine she starter on first kick. The instructors got a kick out of someone not having electric start.


I also got a chance to check the charger with the new 35w headlight.
13.2v before the long ride home, 13.1 this morning. Not terrible. Should have checked last night but I was tired. I can live with that for now. I sill need to clean up the wiring in the headlight and track down why the turn signals aren’t working. There still might be a few wiring gremlins that I don’t know about.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I've only been to Phoenix once, if you were OK in traffic, I would say bike is fixed 8)
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
That’s good to hear. ;D Every time I kick it I still hold my breath. A flipped kill switch can cause a lot of momentary emotional panic.

I’m looking forward to trying my hand at making a seat from scratch next. I’ve had the idea of a seat, but it all felt pretty moot if I couldn’t keep the thing running for more than 30 minutes at a time.
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
I started roughing out a seat today. I’m sure I’ll have to go back and remake everything again. Right now at just about seeing what fits and what works.


I’m open to feedback. I’m thinking I’ll have the seat swing up and back from the tank instead of hinging to the side. Same function as a scissor jack but with a small gas strut instead of a screw.


Anyway. Progress without messing up any tuning.
 

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Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
More progress on the seat.


I originally thought I’d end up with more fender protruding, but that look ones a bit awkward (first photo) so I trimmed it a litttle bit more. Need a hoop to secure the fender a bit more and plug those frame holes.


Im trying to make all of this reversible for anyone who wants to do a restore the next time this thing is found in a barn is value but it’s getting hard. I’m making small concessions. The helmet hook is coming off the frame.
 

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Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Yeah - there is some space between the frame and those red pieces of skateboard that I'd love to get rid of. I think I'll need two more boards if I want to do that right and stick with the bend of the surfboard. If I cover it in brass I could use the brass to extend the lines down a bit and cover everything up....

[/size]
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
I redid the main wiring harness again. It was about 6" shorter than it could have been and it could have been just the right length. I was also having some noise chatter in the neutral light, so I figured there were some bad connections in there somewhere. Adding six inches to a harness is almost as bad as building it from scratch. Took me about 6 hours so an hour an inch (at least I was stoned/probably why I didn't get it done faster.)


I'm running into a small electrical issue. I can't for the life of me figure out how to wire a turn signal indicator (so I'm not rocketing down the road like an old with my blinker on for 45 miles.)


I think the issue is that I'm using the M.Wave instead of a traditional flasher...I'd rather have the m.wave than the turn signal indicator, so ... I might just scrap it, but that leaves the problem of needing to find a use for a third indicator light (I already put that hole there for the dummy charge light, which was short lived as it was more annoying than useful.)


Here's what I've tried and what happens:


I tried running an inline LED before the turn switch, but after the M.wave (grounds through the switch, and the right or left signals)
my thinking was that the light would pulse with the signals regardless of side.
I got nothing out of this at all. No blinkers, no indicator


Second I tried running an inline LED between the turn signals and ground.
My thinking was that maybe moving the indicator to the ground side would work. I tried one side at a time.
what actually happened was that either the LED blinked OR the blinker blinked. It was different for the right than the left, which was super odd.


My next two guesses are to wire the indicator before the M.Wave. The indicator may be steady (which is fine) or will it restrict power to the M.Wave and make the whole turn signal system stop working?


Last, wire it up just like a 5th turn signal and figure out how to isolate R and L so that they don't all go every time I use the blinkers.


Any insights here as to what I'm doing wrong, what I might be doing right, and now to get this thing to work?
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
LED are polarized. If you don't have them wired in the correct "direction" they will not work and will block current for anything else on that circuit. That sounds like a possibility in this case.
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Sonreir said:
LED are polarized. If you don't have them wired in the correct "direction" they will not work and will block current for anything else on that circuit. That sounds like a possibility in this case.


Hmm. I'll check everything again because that's exactly as dumb as I've been in the past, but I think the blinkers were sorted out as everything worked when I just closed the connection with a jumper. I know I had polarity right on the LED indicator as well because I kept testing it on a 12V battery with jumpers to be sure it wasn't blown out.


Is polarity also important with those 12V indicator ones that are wired to accept either input as the positive or negative? (my neutral and hi indicators are that way and I assume the turn will be when it arrives.) When I wired in an incandescent it didn't light, but the turn signal system otherwise worked. I'm guessing that's a resistance issue more than anything else.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Unless they're specially designed to ignore polarity, it's usually safest to assume that all LEDs have a positive and a negative side and the polarity must be respected. This is often why you need diodes to get dashboard indicator lights to work on these old bikes. The old Hondas originally used a turn signal indicator light that would change polarity based on the direction you were signalling. OK for incandescent, not OK for LED.
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
That makes a lot of sense, actually. I've mostly taught myself by looking at old OEM wiring harnesses for the bikes I've been poaching parts off of. Lots of cool engineering in there but not all of it works with polarity.


I should probably hook up one of these other indicators I have on hand to see if I can get the results I'm looking for with the component I'm hoping to use in the end.


I'll post back if I just crossed polarity somewhere. That makes the most sense the more I think about it. I can't help but think that a "dual filament" LED indicator would completely solve this problem for me. I could wire them up just like normal turn signals.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Sonreir said:
. The old Hondas originally used a turn signal indicator light that would change polarity based on the direction you were signalling. OK for incandescent, not OK for LED.
That's why I fitted two indicator warning lights, one for each side ;D
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Okey. dumbest thing. I only swapped one of the bulbs with an LED... that's why each side acted so differently.


In the end, I just wired the indicator in as a third turn signal on each side with some 30V zener diodes I had laying around and it worked great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXhpmot52NY

Looks pretty fancy.
 

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