Had an issue with the electronic ignition that was throwing me. I was able to find some help from folks on here, which I very much appreciate. Back to points for me.
With the bike running I noticed some body panel chatter. The CB450 tank channel isn’t quite wide enough for the CB360 frame. I tested [picture 2] out on the tank that rusted through and it worked fine. I didn’t want to heat or spark anything.
Played around with a few things that I’ve been thinking about working on while trying to figure out the engine troubles. I had a pair of awkward sized bright orange water bottles from an event and decided to mark them up as little fuel tanks. Dunno. Should get me 8-10 miles in a pinch. Among other things i’d need to make fuel safe caps.
I found four of the bag at the thrift store a few years back. It clears the kick starter in that spot. I’ll have to grind off the seat tabs when I make the new seat. Then the bag will sit right.
The leathers from a skinned couch. I’ve got a feint idea of a tiny rear rack just behind the seat and above the rear fender. I can’t quite wrap my head around it yet.
Okay. So this thing is running fantastically. It pulls hard all the way to redline, doesn't overheat, and sounds like an angry singer sewing machine.
I've gotten to the point where I always assume whatever is wrong is the worst thing, and i've been wrong the last two times.
I was having some trouble with my wiring. Turned out the ground cable to the headlights had a break in the line (replaced the ground and everything works just as it should.) I also stripped out one of the points screws. Turned out the screw threads had fallen apart. I was expecting to have to size up and rethread the points plate. I was lucky enough to just have to replace the screw.
I've got all the functionality I was looking for. When I hit the pass button on my controls it either flashes the headlight on or off depending on its resting state. The dummy charge light works great. I'll update the wiring diagram in case anyone is looking for something.
It looks like i need to get a weaker H4 or pick up an LED bulb from Common Motor. With the light on the system doesn't quite keep up (especially with city riding.)
Anyway, Just in time for riding season to be over in AZ =P
Here she is. Now I can start working on the back half (seat/fender/rear turn signals)
I've got a motogadget mWave and some LED replacement turn and tail bulbs on the way to further reduce the draw on the charge system. I'll take a short video of the whole bit when I get the mWave installed. Should look like a motogadget hooked up to factory controls =P
'Standard' H4 is 60/55w, high power, 100~120/ 55w (illegal for road use)
You can use 60/55w but need to stay over 7,000 rpm much of the time
35/35w were also ( first?) used in 1986~87(?) Yamaha FZR 1000
Chinese scooters using them dropped price by about 70%~85%.
I was running errands today on the 360 and it turned into an impromptu desert ride. 60 miles at 88 degrees. Both sides of the engine were around 310 degrees when I got back, so I’m guessing that it’s pretty close to spot on (maybe running a little rich.)
The bike is supper peppy up to about 60mph and then seems pretty disappointed to have a full tank of gas and 220 lbs of rider/gear. Is that all I’m going to get out of this bike with stock air/fuel/exhaust? (I’m not mad about it if it is.)
It doesn’t have a problem pulling through 7000rpm at lower speeds. Anywhere you’d start for more power? I’m really attached to my stock scrambler exhaust and very tame exhaust note. Im not really willing to swap that bit out for power. That may mean that I’m living my life quite shy of the ton =P maybe it’s time for me to migrate over to that site about Honda twins. Lol.
I’m guessing I could also try to get the vt500 running. That would be a “quick” ten horses.
I should also mention that I don’t have a speedo so I’m guessing based on RPM and the rough 25/50/75mph Indication markets I added to te tach. Flow of traffic and speed limits support my guess of 65. Didn’t have my phone or a mount to use for GPS speed. I guess that could be an easy next step.
I also cut some tank stripes out of brass sheet and paints them to match the headlight shroud. I’m not sure about them. The blue doesn’t really contrast as nicely with the raw tank as the polished brass did. I may pick up a paint pen and try a white outline. My friend just picked up all the pin striping materials, so if it looks right, I can make it into something worth having on there.
Dunno. Into feedback.
I also made a custom desert water bag. It still needs a light wax (I used cotton duck instead of linen duck, so it leaks a bit more than it should. With oboe 1.25 L of capacity that means it’s empty after a long ride, which isn’t the point. I’ve added straps to tie it to the headlight ears or for triple tree. It sits lightly on the front fender. The goal is a bit of a seamp cooling effect. And, it’s badass tech that we’ve just abandoned for shit powered byelectricity. Electricity is lazy as fuck.
You have to red line it for max performance, often it's going to be quicker in 5th gear than 6th.Stock, it should be capable of running to the 'far end of red section, but unless you did the oil mods it's a bad idea. Your engine temps are interesting, shows 360's run hot. Was the temp at case or head? (that's hot for engine covers )
That’s at the spark plugs and around the surrounding fins. I was seeing very low 300s previously on the right with ~ 370 on the left. This is from a $30 hft IR temp gun. I stated taking the temp from there because I was worried about the electronic ignition. Now I’m back to points, so It just habit to look there. I’ll take temp from the cases.
I’m running 20w50 and cleaned out/ replaced the oil pump and drilled out the clutch basket. Dunno if other mods need to be done. Probably not worth redlining it in the summer. It’s already 100deg + degrees cold. I also don’t know if that’s something to be paranoid of.
You need to do the oil transfer piece mod to increase oil flow. I thought you did it when clutch cover was off?I stopped using 20w/50 a long time ago, becuase it's 'thicker' at all temps the top end tends to wear/seize quicker than using 10w/40 (or, 5w/40 full synthetic Rottella + about 3/4 oz ZDDP)
Local vintage twin mechanic was telling me to only run 20w50 here because it’s never under 100 degrees from June to October. I don’t know if that tracks. Oil is cheaper than an overhaul, so I’m happy to run to Walmart or oreielys to get 5w rosella if the 20w50 is such a bad idea.
On a similar ride today I got these temp readings after running in to grab the temp gun (~5 min?)
Outside temp: 93 degrees (yahoo)
left case (stator) at Honda emblem 138 deg
right case (clutch) at Honda emblem 137 deg
Center of block (around the cam chain tensioner nut) 205 degrees.
I've got the most minor of oil leaks from the left sprocket cover area. I'll swap out the oil while modifying the oil transfer piece and replace the requisite gaskets/plugs. (unless I have to split the cases to do that. I'm not really interested in that yet.)
I should be using standard 10w40 despite high temps here and no possibility of temps below 45?
Is rotella 5w40 a better way to go? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info. This bike doesn't see cold.
The only temp I'd worry about would be right at the head, near the spark plug hole. That's the closest part, on the outside, that you can get to the inside. Anything over 400°F would start to worry me.
I would pull clutch cover and do oil mod first, MiniatureNinja took pics of his so it should be easy to find. It's rarely much over 90 in Florida but I would use the Rottella with a little ZDDP added anyway, it's thinner so will protect cam bearings better at high temps. (less likely to build enough pressure to 'open' transfer piece)After oil mod is done, 25/50 should be OK?