Cb450/500t track bike

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Looks ready to bend wrenches already!

If going RC LiPos, keep in mind that they are so lite that you can get good power with very little weight gain. Put good quality connectors on them, and you can take spares to the track. But when they run down, voltage drops rapidly and they can be damaged so make sure you have excess capacity.
 

teazer

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What ignition are you using? That makes all the difference to how much battery you will need. RC Lipos are great for short runs. They can handle a very high discharge rate, but I suspect they don't have sufficient capacity for a 5 lap plus warm up of say Phillip Island. Dyna ignition and coils make huge blue sparks but drain batteries quite fast.

If you use a Motoplat or PVL or HPI or similar, they are self generating and don't need a battery.
 

deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
Tank mount sorted and front end off to get the brake mounts sorted.
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deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
What ignition are you using? That makes all the difference to how much battery you will need. RC Lipos are great for short runs. They can handle a very high discharge rate, but I suspect they don't have sufficient capacity for a 5 lap plus warm up of say Phillip Island. Dyna ignition and coils make huge blue sparks but drain batteries quite fast.

If you use a Motoplat or PVL or HPI or similar, they are self generating and don't need a battery.

It’s a Boyer ignition mate


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ex119x

Been Around the Block
I have always been reluctant to run total loss on my race bikes. Worrying about whether or not my battery is charged is one more thing I don't need. I also always wonder whether a running issue is electrical or jetting and at the race track simplified diagnostics is always better. Unless ultimate weight loss and perhaps slightly better acceleration is making a difference between winning and losing, I keep a charging system battery and electric starter. I am too old to be push starting bikes.
 

deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
I have always been reluctant to run total loss on my race bikes. Worrying about whether or not my battery is charged is one more thing I don't need. I also always wonder whether a running issue is electrical or jetting and at the race track simplified diagnostics is always better. Unless ultimate weight loss and perhaps slightly better acceleration is making a difference between winning and losing, I keep a charging system battery and electric starter. I am too old to be push starting bikes.

That would of been ideal however the bike was set up in the UK like this already so I’m having to run what I got


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teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
We ran total loss on all our road race Hondas and I have done a few races at PI with a simple lead acid battery back before anyone had invented LiPo batteries. Road America tended to suck all the available electrons out of a bike using Dyna ignitions. I have little experience with British ignitions, but I am not a fan of that seventies technology in Boyer and Pirhana/Newtronic systems but I know people that use them and like them..

That said, I just sent a TZ self energizing ignition to Rex's Speed Shop in the UK for new internals.

If it were my bike, I'd pay for an HPI or Electrexworld self energizing system or get a Motoplat or PVL system. Oddly enough I still have a NOS Motoplat that Todd Henning supplied decades ago for a CB77 that I never built after I dragged all my spare parts over here from VIC.

As a second option - Plan B - I would try an RC car/plane Lithium battery at a local track and see how many laps it lasted. They are not expensive as long as the ignition is OK with 14.8 volt supply.

Ignitech is good up to 16volts I believe, but I have no idea what a Boyer will stand. Try it and see. If it dies, get a fully programmable Ignitech and use some of the fancy features such as speed shifting and 2 stage retard for full power launches off the grid.

So many options, so little time to try them all. What a time to be alive and racing motorcycles.
 

deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
We ran total loss on all our road race Hondas and I have done a few races at PI with a simple lead acid battery back before anyone had invented LiPo batteries. Road America tended to suck all the available electrons out of a bike using Dyna ignitions. I have little experience with British ignitions, but I am not a fan of that seventies technology in Boyer and Pirhana/Newtronic systems but I know people that use them and like them..

That said, I just sent a TZ self energizing ignition to Rex's Speed Shop in the UK for new internals.

If it were my bike, I'd pay for an HPI or Electrexworld self energizing system or get a Motoplat or PVL system. Oddly enough I still have a NOS Motoplat that Todd Henning supplied decades ago for a CB77 that I never built after I dragged all my spare parts over here from VIC.

As a second option - Plan B - I would try an RC car/plane Lithium battery at a local track and see how many laps it lasted. They are not expensive as long as the ignition is OK with 14.8 volt supply.

Ignitech is good up to 16volts I believe, but I have no idea what a Boyer will stand. Try it and see. If it dies, get a fully programmable Ignitech and use some of the fancy features such as speed shifting and 2 stage retard for full power launches off the grid.

So many options, so little time to try them all. What a time to be alive and racing motorcycles.

Rc is the go I think. I’ll try a lipo4 4cell and see how it goes.


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teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
I bought a few Turnigy batteries from there. Good idea to wire in a simple voltage meter/battery minder so you can pull in before the battery goes flat.
 

deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
Ok sweet thank you both I’ll have a look now on that site. Battery meter is the go but or even a warning light.


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teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
That's interesting. Out of stock. I might need to order one of those myself.
 

John Murray

Been Around the Block
Interesting thread. The secret to getting good battery life out of a total loss system is to use a CD ignition rather than inductive. I've run both types and the CD runs much longer. A CD ignition will only draw a fraction of the current of an inductive ignition of a similar energy level - you can run a CD with a higher output than an inductive yet still have a longer run time. I've been using Lipos (Turnigy 5000mah 4S) for a few years now and have found they can give a couple of hours run time, though of course it depends on the ignition box and number of cylinders. Keep in mind the voltage rating is nominal, so a 4S with a rating of 14.8v will actually be over 16v when fully charged. A 3S (11.1 nominal) will be a tad over 12v fully charged and could well be a better choice with some setups.

A couple of my older lipos are swelling up - I didn't know until recently that they aren't meant to be stored fully charged and I think this is what damaged them. Apparently they should be stored half charged and only charged before use. Allowing them to sit fully charged (or worse, fully discharged) damages them. There's plenty of info on the RC sites, worth looking at before you start using lipos.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Storage of LiPos is another thing - never leave them in the bike, or for that matter in the house. When I did RC helis, mine were kept in a LiPo safe bag (minimal protection) inside the web of a 12" concrete block on a cement slab with a large plastic bag of sand as a cover. If a cell were to burn, the heat would melt the bag and the sand smother the cell. Watch a few YouTube videos of what these cells can do if not treated properly.
 
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deepwaterimports

Over 1,000 Posts
Interesting thread. The secret to getting good battery life out of a total loss system is to use a CD ignition rather than inductive. I've run both types and the CD runs much longer. A CD ignition will only draw a fraction of the current of an inductive ignition of a similar energy level - you can run a CD with a higher output than an inductive yet still have a longer run time. I've been using Lipos (Turnigy 5000mah 4S) for a few years now and have found they can give a couple of hours run time, though of course it depends on the ignition box and number of cylinders. Keep in mind the voltage rating is nominal, so a 4S with a rating of 14.8v will actually be over 16v when fully charged. A 3S (11.1 nominal) will be a tad over 12v fully charged and could well be a better choice with some setups.

A couple of my older lipos are swelling up - I didn't know until recently that they aren't meant to be stored fully charged and I think this is what damaged them. Apparently they should be stored half charged and only charged before use. Allowing them to sit fully charged (or worse, fully discharged) damages them. There's plenty of info on the RC sites, worth looking at before you start using lipos.

Is 14-16v to much but? I’m lost when it comes to this. What bike are you running the turnigy 4s in mate?


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teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
The one that you ordered should be perfect - albeit a little expensive. See the XT90 reference, that's a high current connector. Mine only need XT60s.
 

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