Dirtbag Oil-Boiler

I talked to Dale Walker at Holeshot Preformance about the filter situation, he thinks a shortened pod filter would work just fine as it will have 1.5 times the surface area of the stock filter. K&N told me 4-6 weeks to receive a quote and then another 4-6 weeks to receive the filters. I'm thinking about cutting the filters down and gluing on my own endcaps.
 
doc_rot said:
I talked to Dale Walker at Holeshot Preformance about the filter situation, he thinks a shortened pod filter would work just fine as it will have 1.5 times the surface area of the stock filter. K&N told me 4-6 weeks to receive a quote and then another 4-6 weeks to receive the filters. I'm thinking about cutting the filters down and gluing on my own endcaps.

I enjoyed talking to Dale a few times when I was tuning his kit for my ZRX. He's been great for support and tuning.
 
filters trimmed to length. I'm going to make an endcap out of aluminum, but I'm not sure what glue to use. liquid nails?
 

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Epoxy will stick well to the aluminum, just rough up the surface first. Love the work to the frame, should be a great ride with the B12 :)
 
West Systems G/Flex. I promise you, once you use the stuff you will search for other things to use it on. It's a wonderful plastics repair medium, too. I repaired a fuel leak on a metal dual sport tank 2 years ago and it's still leak free.

--or--

3M 08101 Structural Adhesive
 
Thanks on the tip for g-flex. I was wondering about a glue that is vibration resistant. that will work perfectly.
 
the stock B12 coils appear to be in good shape and have been proven to work. I also have these accel coils, but they need new wires. what should I run?
 

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Is there any good reason why the GSXR rear caliper is fully floating and the torque arm mounts to the frame? seems like a lot of complexity just to have the caliper move with the suspension. I want to use the bandit rear caliper hanger to get the caliper over the disk properly(gsxr is for bigger diamter disk), but the bandit mount is not fully floating so I would need to weld a torque arm mount on the swingarm, or machine a bronze sleeve and bushing for the bandit mount.
 
The caliper is hung on the axle and the torque arm bolts to the frame, so the caliper pivots on the axle with the swingarm moves. Usually the torque arm is mounted directly to the swing-arm so it doesn't have to pivot, which is what i think I will do. easier to weld a mount than machine a bunch of parts. I still cant figure out why they would design it like this. Perhaps is a suspension loading thing.
 
Seems odd for sure. Maybe it increases braking as the bike sags with stop. Funny thing, though: It's a stay if it's mounted on the swing arm. It's a torque arm if it's mounted to the frame.
 
Floating calipers are the bees knees because they separate the forces of suspension and braking. It's a common modification on race bikes and rare on street bikes. I don't remember seeing that on any street bikes, so yours may have been modified. I just remembered. KR1S Kawasaki is like that.

Do you have pictures of yours
 
teazer said:
I don't remember seeing that on any street bikes, so yours may have been modified.

My ‘89 Gsxr750 had the same setup. Definitely came from the factory that way. I think all the oil-cooled Gsxr750/1100’s are like that.

Later, Doug
 
I don't have any pics because its disassembled right now. here are some examples.
 

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Not mine as I sold mine a few years ago. You can see the access hole in the frame about 4” below the swingarm pivot bolt.

Suzuki-GSX-R-750-Slingshot-Right-Side-1.jpg


Later, Doug
 
I had forgotten that they were floating.

Somewhere here I have the rear torque arm for a KR1S that I bought at a wreaker (breakers) to use on a vintage CB77 racer. Here's a KR1S picture
01Kawasaki-KR-1S.jpg


Perfect for a quiet afternoon commute......
 
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