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Ill get you a few for yea and i did find that with the spoke wheels the FZR set up works . I was using BradJs bike as a guide. Then when i put them on the mag wheels diff story but i will get it worked out !
Got time to grab a few pics of the disk and caliper problem . First one is of where the disk would have to be if i ran the FZR caliper. And the next is the disk and FZR caliper sorry for the bad shot hard to take a pic in a tight space. Please let me know if you see something im missing or any other ideas i might be missing ! And will be removing the studs to run lil longer bolts as theres no threads to run a nut on there safely !
And yes that is the stock mounting spacer behind the disk. Gave me the right spaceing or very close for what i need to figure out . Will not be the one being used .
Spent some time out in the shop over the weekend and got a few small things done . Got a good idea how the front will work out and needed to figure out the rear brake set-up next . Justinlonghorn hooked me up with a few FZR rear brake parts. Its funny how parts that are over 10 years apart fit together. What i did was take a FZR rear brake hanger and mounted it instead of the RD400 hanger i had . The funny part was the RD axel is a spot on match to the FZR hanger went right together. Well thought the rear FZR rear caliper would not fit but come to find out had it on backwards the first time and will work with a lil work. Still need to work a few things out adn far as spaceing but over all is going to work . Here are a few pics of how it turned out .This is just a mock up to get a idea of mounting. Please if someone sees something that is unsafe or just wont work do point out please !
Thanks man hopin to get it all work out ! Now was told a few things to think about which are good points. These are just a mock up and are a long way to getting right and spaced right. The spacers and getting everything centered right still needs to be worked out and mounting needs to be tweaked to fit right and functional .
Thanks Guys !
Small update : Got the small parts to rebuild the kickstarter also waiting on a order from Dime City.As for the brake set up going to start on the back and get it all done first . Will be starting with getting the hanger and caliper mounted . Then will get the spaceing for the rotor and center of the caliper . Ordered all the metal to make front and back spacers : 1 3/16 303ss round stock , 6 1/2 ''x 1 1/2 , 4"x 1 1/2 round stock 6061 . Will pick it up monday and take it right to the machinist to get started . Once the rear is done and buttoned up will move on to the front .
Well done and such great attention to detail. Very ambitious getting the modern brake set up to work. What did you use for the carbon fiber look panels on the seat cowl?
Thanks guys ! It very simple i used CF sheet tape to make them .
OK so all has been going smooth as much as you can say that on a build no big hicups ! If you have read my thread didnt mess with the motor other then new gaskets and valve adjustment . Got the motor to run and everything NPs > Then just pulled the motor and set it to the side to have the frame PCed. Got that back and but the motor back in again NP as i buttoned everything up. So I know it started with the E button and when i put the motor in the kicker worked . So here comes the kick in the teeth moment !!!!!!! I was tighting the main bolt on the front sproket and as i was it turned the motor over backwards !!! Now I have read that could be a very bad thing ! So now when the kicker is pushed down theres NOTHING just some resistance . There are no grinding sounds or anything and goes thru the stroke smooth . Then i checked to see if its even turning the motor over and its not . So then took the valve cover off to have a look and seemed to me that the kicker was not engageing the motor .
So jumped online to have a look at how the kicker engages the motor and there is a larger gear that sits on a worm gear . I m thinking that maybe by the motor going backwards a lil it might have slide the larger gear off of the smaller one . Which if it did will have to pull the motor and pull it apart which im very pissed at myself if thats the case.
Now im not 100% this is the problem going to do some more looking and reading and asking dumb things . Im hoping that its more simpler then im thinking ( Plan for the worst hope for the best ) but if anyone can help out as to what i might have done or what to look at befor i pull it all down would be great !!!!!!
hmm, I would hope the little bit you moved it backwards would be no worse then rocking back and forth in gear to find neutral? How much backwards? Can you shift in into gear and roll it and then go back into neutral and check the kicker again? They are designed to disengage after starting and maybe that happened and you need to move it a bit to re-set it? All therory here as the only kick start bike I have worked on is a honda 50 clone. Good luck, I am sure someone with more yamaha knowledge will chime in,
Yep tried that bud had NP going to neutral or back into gear . Played around with it to see if that would work and nothing . As for how many times it rotated backwards as i was tighting it think it 1 -1 1/2 turns which by the look of a blown up pic could very well spin that gear off the worm gear .
Was thinking well the E button works could just run it with out a kicker BUT i put way to much time and everything into making this bike and can see it now " I start it up and something that was a pain but could be fixed just " F ed " the motor all up and have to do a total rebuild not just a pull the motor apart and slide a gear back in place " If it comes down to one or the other will pull it apart to fix it first !
Going to go at it very slow and look at simple things first then "IF" the fix is in the motor will pull it even if keeps the bike off the road till next year GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or till i get it done !
As for mid-ohio which i really wanted to take it to which was my goal will ride the victory or drive ! NOTHING WILL STOP ME LOLOLOLOLOL
Yes it does. I have been there with the GL, just before Barber I get new points, in a hurry to time so I leave plugs in, set Timing, new points + correct timing equals way better running bike, little did I know my high compression engine allowed me to overtorque the alternator bolt and shear threads off. I went to do belts about a week before the 2000 mile ride and the bolt was dangling out of the engine. That meant pulling the motor to fix! It sucked, and I had to cage it to barber, but live and learn. I hope you can fix this without having to pull the motor.
Thanks man ! Guess i can look at it this way, if i cant get it done by Mid-ohio can carry a LARGE cooler full of fun lol With a trailer just in case me or someone finds something they cant go with out LOL ;D
And yes sir its a learning thing which isnt always bad just no fun !
I kind of screwed up my kicker install, and when I cranked the motor over for the first time with the e-start, the kicker went down through its stroke by itself and whacked me in the shin.... Not fun. The motor spun over fine with the kicker and it returned to the top of its stroke just fine until I used the electric leg. Turns out I had the spring installed wrong.
Long story short, see if cranking it over with the electric leg clears up the problem before you open her up again. Having the extra speed of the electric start may just knock her right back into place.
Im going to try my friend ! Going to start tonight with a few things and work from the kicker in and see what happens . Have the week of the july 4th off so i hope will have it done by then !
First thing will try is make sure i look over everything out side motor to make sure im not missing anything . And if that dont work will drain the oil and pull the clutch cover off and see whats there and if anything is disengaged and if i need to go deeper into the motor will pull it out of the frame and pull The monkey motor apart . It sucks because i will have to spilt the case to get to it .
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