Shake the Box CL360/378 - The Hedgehog - Done

You aren't measuring distance, you are measuring time (frequency). Bigger tire = fewer pulses per given distance (Lower Frequency). Smaller tire = more pulses per given distance (Higher Frequency)

Take your 8 magnet apparatus and use it with the speedo set to 100mm. That ought to get your 15,835 miles awful quick. 9999 is too high. You’re thinking about it wrong.

I have One magnet mounted on the wheel, therefore it’s One Pulse per rotation of the wheel. Regardless if the magnet is out near the tire or very close to the axle it’s still only one pulse per rotation. The little brain in the speedo takes each pulse, regardless of how often they come and multiplies it by the circumference I give to the little brain in mm = XXXXmm.

P = Pulse (From Hall sensor)
C = Wheel circumference (In mm)
D = Distance
T = Time
S = Speed

If C = 0001
Then for 1000 pulses:
P x C = D 1000 x 0001 = 1,000

If C = 9999
Then:
P x C = D 1,000 x 9999 = 9,999,000

So, if the number of pulses, P, remains the same and the wheel circumference, C, changes then the distance traveled changes.

Keeping that in mind, if the number of Pulses increases the Distance traveled also increases.

Now consider Time, T, and Speed, S. The Distance you travel divided by the Time it takes you to get there gives you the Speed you traveled during that Time. (Yes, I know, it’s an average speed.)

D/T = S 1,000mm/20 min = 50mm per min

D/T = S 9,999,000mm/20 min = 499,950mm per min

My whirlygig w/ 8 magnets isn't the wheel but the cpeedo still thinks it is, so every rotation of the drill it's chucked into sends 8 pulses to the speedo and the speedo is getting lots of pulses and getting them really fast. The larger the number of mm each pulse is set to represent the faster and farther the readout is going to indicate. I observed this personally by changing the mm setting and then running the drill again. That's why the speedo really was indicating several hundred mph when I had the mm set to 9999.
 
Ok.. that's not how the Triumph and Harley ECUs work to calculate speed (which is what I've done speedo corrections on. The wheel circumference isn't even considered. I have a Koso speedo that I think works the way yours does that I've not used yet.
 
Ok.. that's not how the Triumph and Harley ECUs work to calculate speed (which is what I've done speedo corrections on. The wheel circumference isn't even considered. I have a Koso speedo that I think works the way yours does that I've not used yet.

This thing is a universal so I spoze the best way to do it is to just plug in the wheel/tire diameter for whatever you put it on. Could work on anything from a wheelbarrow to a giant dump truck, I spoze.
 
Does the formula work in reverse for your needs?

New Circumference = (Old Circumference / Indicated speed)Actual Speed

(5000 / 55)60 = 5455
 
Does the formula work in reverse for your needs?

New Circumference = (Old Circumference / Indicated speed)Actual Speed

(5000 / 55)60 = 5455

I think there's a good chance it would, I don't see why not.
 
Good news and bad news day.

The first good news is that it seems like the speedo may be close to right on. The readings on the GPS were very close to what was indicated on the DanMoto. I could see it pretty well at lower speeds in town but the phone got too warm inside the tank bag map pocket and turned itself off so I didn't see the higher speeds.

Second good news is that I made it over to Levi's (@Hurco550).

The first bad news is that it ran like crap, WOT about 65mph. We got to looking at things after I got there and decided that the left cylinder wasn't firing. (WE had checked for spark at an earlier date and did have spark then.) We got another plug boot and even trimmed back the cable a bit and it ran on both cylinders for a little bit and then it went back to only the right and no amount of fiddling would help. I probably could have coaxed it home but we also discovered another little issue that will need some repair so onto the trailer it went. Levi was trying to boost my morale by saying that's what shakedowns are for. Bottom line is that I should have just bought new coils and plug wires when I was thinking about it, those originals are over 40 years old.

The second bad news is that because the phone overheated (see above) I took it out of the case to let it cool and it eventually fell out of my shirt pocket and shattered the screen. Grrrr.... relatively new iPhone... still works, hopefully I can just get new glass installed. EDIT: Yup, fixed by the Geek Squad at Best Buy... $180. Grrrrrr
 
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New punch list:

1. Find, buy, and install new coils (Maybe install the Pamco I got while I'm at it?)
2. Repair electric/battery tray
3. Modify muffler baffles to reduce noise
4. Keep hoping the seat will be finished
 
Punch list progress:

1. Find, buy, and install new coils (Maybe install the Pamco I got while I'm at it?). ORDERED - Waiting...
2. Repair electric/battery tray Repaired, permanently, I hope.
3. Modify muffler baffles to reduce noise Next!
4. Keep hoping the seat will be finished. Waiting...
 
Punch list progress:

1. Find, buy, and install new coils DONE!
2. Repair electric/battery tray Repaired, permanently, I hope.
3. Modify muffler baffles to reduce noise DONE!
4. Keep hoping the seat will be finished. Waiting, and waiting...


Coils installed. Running better? You tell me:
 

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I got several miles in today, just cruising around town and into the country a bit.

Overall the thing is pretty good. It now runs and starts reliably. It still will die if left to idle more than 30 seconds or so and may or may not die at a stop sign or stop light. Doesn't take much of a blip to keep it going, I probably just need to set the idle just a bit higher. All in all it seems pretty good to me but I'd love to turn it over to someone who's more skilled/experienced with tuning. I doubt that it would take much fiddling to get it set right.

My work on the baffles has worked out well. It's not too loud but not muzzled off, either, and has a much more "tuned" and healthy sound, not ragged and raucous. I'm sure that's partly attributable to the baffles and more to having a more healthy and reliable spark.

The DanMoto is not being good at all! Below a certain speed, 20mph or so, it is fine and works as it should. Above that the entire screen just lights up w/ everything illuminated. I'll check things out, it could be that I've got a wire under the seat pinched a little. I'll take the seat off again and make sure everything is as it should be. It wasn't doing that last time I rode it so I doubt that it's permanent or anything other than a minor issue.

Comfort? No question, there isn't much! It certainly ain't no Gold Wing!

image39.jpeg
 
I had 50% of a successful ride today. Temperatures were down si it was time to get things more sorted out! I found the problem w/ the DanMoto; it's ground wire was loose. I got that taken care of (and checked all of the other terminal strip connections) and the thing is wowrking like it's suppose to... almost... occasionally the tach reading jumps up, stays there for a while, and then goes back to where it should be. No rhyme or reason or apparent cause, just blip up for a few seconds and then back down.

I said 50% of the ride... I went to visit a friend and it ran great on the way over and then ran poorly on the way home. Back firing? Is that a sign of an ignition problem? I've got new coils that have been great since I put them in, could they be crapping out on me? They are mounted a little lower than where they would be as per stock, could they be getting too hot? They have spade connectors, I wonder if those vibrated loose? Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?
 
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I am not entirely sure, but if you ever want to sell that CL360 exhaust I will certainly buy it from you
 
I am not entirely sure, but if you ever want to sell that CL360 exhaust I will certainly buy it from you

I've been considering switching to a low 2-1 system for it, but I finally got it set up w/ baffles that seem to work well so I'm not sure if I'll switch or not. I'm also thinking about selling the whole bike, too, so I guess we'll just see what happens.
 
New T3 spark plugs (T3.31, direct replacements for the NGK B8ES) installed today.
 
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