Simplified Wiring Digrams

Sonreir

Oregon
There are two black/yellows.

One goes to the coil and the other goes to the kill switch. I'm not sure how these are connector (or not connected) inside the CDI, so there may or may not be a difference between which is which.

Anyway... one of the black/yellows needs to go to the coil and the other needs to be ungrounded in order to get spark.
 

treitz

New Member
Sonreir said:
There are two black/yellows.

One goes to the coil and the other goes to the kill switch. I'm not sure how these are connector (or not connected) inside the CDI, so there may or may not be a difference between which is which.

Anyway... one of the black/yellows needs to go to the coil and the other needs to be ungrounded in order to get spark.
Alright. Maybe I'll try flip-flipping the black yellows if it doesn't work. One had a bullet connector, and one had a flat connector, so I think I got them right... but you never know.
 

treitz

New Member
Switched the black/yellows and still nothin. So what am I missing?

If the magneto is independent of the rest of the system, what tells the magneto when the ignition switch is on? The blue white from the rectifier right?

So I guess I should mention, I added an ignition switch in the main red circuit right after the fuse, before the tail lights and everything else. Probably worth mentioning.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
treitz said:
Switched the black/yellows and still nothin. So what am I missing?

If the magneto is independent of the rest of the system, what tells the magneto when the ignition switch is on? The blue white from the rectifier right?

So I guess I should mention, I added an ignition switch in the main red circuit right after the fuse, before the tail lights and everything else. Probably worth mentioning.
Nothing does. It's completely independent. If you're not getting spark and the yellow/black wire isn't grounded then there's something wrong with the magneto, CDI, coil, and/or associated wiring.
 

treitz

New Member
Sonreir said:
Nothing does. It's completely independent. If you're not getting spark and the yellow/black wire isn't grounded then there's something wrong with the magneto, CDI, coil, and/or associated wiring.
The associated wiring is all stock. Two or three connectors from the magneto to the CDI.

Bike ran before disassembly like 6 months ago... so it seams strange that something would just suddenly go out. Where would you start the diagnostic?
 

Sonreir

Oregon
I'd bench test the coil to begin, and then test continuity on all the wires.

If you have an oscilloscope or a peak hold meter, you can test the magneto, but the CDI isn't usually testable at home and is replaced after other things are ruled out.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
CDI (if possible) and magneto tests should be in the service manual.

Coil test info here:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=44556.msg679448#msg679448

Because your bike is CDI, the coil may or may not get enough voltage from the battery to trigger, though. The bench test will only tell if if the coil is good, not if the coil is bad. It's possible to get a false negative.
 

CALfeRacer

Fat man on a little bike
Don't want to interrupt, but I have a quick question about an XL125 I just picked up...
There aren't any wires on this bike ::) Only the wire from the points to the coil (which looks aftermarket.. not sure) and the plug wire. I want to set it up just to spark so I can make sure it runs before I put $ in to getting it street legal. On my diagram it shows three wires coming off the stator, Black/White which goes to kill switch, ignition switch, and points/coil/condenser. Yellow which goes to headlight switch, and white which goes to rectifier. On the topic of that, it shows only two connections. I've always seen them with four so that is throwing me off a bit. Anyways, if I just connect the B/W from the stator to the coil/points/condenser it should spark, correct?
 

jesustripper

New Member
Im struggling with a complete re-wire of a Honda CD 185 T. To begin with I'd like to get an extremely simple harness together to get the thing ticking over. Battery, points + coils. Can anybody help/point me in the right direction?
 

Sonreir

Oregon
jesustripper said:
Im struggling with a complete re-wire of a Honda CD 185 T. To begin with I'd like to get an extremely simple harness together to get the thing ticking over. Battery, points + coils. Can anybody help/point me in the right direction?
1.) Ground strap from battery negative terminal to bare metal (engine mount is a popular choice).
2.) Battery positive terminal to an inline fuse (10A or 15A is good).
3.) Fuse to switch (at least 6A, 15A is better).
4.) Other terminal of switch to the ignition coils (black/white wire).
5.) Ignition coils to condensors and points.
 

seventeescycle

New Member
Sonreir said:
1.) Ground strap from battery negative terminal to bare metal (engine mount is a popular choice).
2.) Battery positive terminal to an inline fuse (10A or 15A is good).
3.) Fuse to switch (at least 6A, 15A is better).
4.) Other terminal of switch to the ignition coils (black/white wire).
5.) Ignition coils to condensors and points.
Side note on a related topic, I'm installing a custom cb550 harness that a friend got from sparck. We are using accel coils with a dyna pulse. I can't find any black/white wires to connect with the coils. How do I get power to the coils this case? I'm only seeing white kill switch Y connection wires that come close to the coils.
 
C

customcustom

Guest
Sonreir said:
Barebones diagram for the Honda twins and singles. Only enough to get the bike running and keep it that way. No lights, signals, or gauges included. Though not pictured, I recommend a 5A fuse on the black wire leading to the coils.
Any chance you could give me some pointers on a similar set up for a CB900C 1982 Four?

I plan on running nothing but a horn
 

Attachments

Hold_Fast

New Member
Was hoping you guys could take a look and give me some feed back on the diagram I made for my CB350 twin. This is using EMGO controls and a fuse box. This is my first go at wiring, so bear with me!
 

Attachments

vdubbles24

New Member
Sonreir said:
Barebones diagram for the Honda twins and singles. Only enough to get the bike running and keep it that way. No lights, signals, or gauges included. Though not pictured, I recommend a 5A fuse on the black wire leading to the coils.


Tips on using factory key switch with this "barebones" setup? The 4 wires on my key switch have me dumbfounded. I got it wired up like this waiting on reg/rec kohler unit to be delivered today.

thanks
Brandon
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Yup.

You only need the red and black ones. Skip the brown.

Red comes in directly from the main fuse and black goes out to feed power to everything.
 
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