Spray Gun vs Spray Paint - The Debate Thread

....should i pay some obsurd jrod price for a devilbiss? Or get the HF shit &grit kit???....either way im still shaken cans for now....
 

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I will agree that a gun, compressor and paint is better, but I have painted 2 and working on my third bike with Duplicolor rattle and Spraymax 2K. This is the first time I have had to work indoors. I normally do the paint when the weather is good outside. What I have done this time is taped off the end of my garage with plastic, put a heater to get the temp up. built a filter box with a filter for inside air, then hooked a vaccum to another filtered box and set it outside to pull the fumes out under the garage door, it worked great and I am about half way through the paint job. When I do the spraying of the regular duplicolor I wear my coveralls and respirator and with the vaccum it was enough the overspray was drawn out and there was no dust in the paint at all. When I do the 2K I'll have gloves, googles, painters suit with hood and tape around all the seams and respirator etc. Pic of the tank with a layer of enamel clear to protect the paint while I apply decals, after full cure a wet sand and then the 5-6 coats of 2K will go on. It will look as good as a paint gun job, but I had the choice of 1 yellow, if I had the tools, which I will soon now that I have a way to paint inside, I would have been able to pick from Hundreds of yellows and could have done flake or other effects, but the new owner of the bike looked at it last night and they are very happy, it is the look they wanted, I gave them the out to take the tins to someone now to re-coat but they are happy so I am happy and will finish off the job. The 2K is UV stabalized and so is the Rattle I bought, some are not so they can fade. Biggest thing for me is the cleanup is fast and this made sure there was 0 odors in the house as the garage is in the basement.
 

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Nice looking work Maritime !
I'm spraying parts for a bike over the Winter w/ small Duplicolor lacquer touch-up/spray cans myself.I live in a 4 story Apt.(cheap place..)on the 4th flr. I've been bringing individual pieces down to the basement/storage room at around midnight (which has a very small ventilation fan for humidity,not really enough vent. and Certainly not a booth..)and spraying and then taking the parts up to my Apt. where it's warm..(I have to sleep w/ a few windows cracked open..). I just sprayed the tank(it's a little NC50 2 speed that I'm restoring for sale in Spring)which is a seat-over style and also sprayed a fresh can of Duplicolor #BCL0125 clear top coat,I gave it a few heavy coats 30 mins after I sprayed the color coat.
My questions to you are first: how long should I let the paint 'out gas'/cure before I put the fuel tank(carefully.. ::) )into service/up for sale w/ the bike ? and: Will the Duplicolor clear coat offer me any protection from fuel spills ? Thanks ;)
 
grcamna5 said:
Nice looking work Maritime !
I'm spraying parts for a bike over the Winter w/ small Duplicolor lacquer touch-up/spray cans myself.I live in a 4 story Apt.(cheap place..)on the 4th flr. I've been bringing individual pieces down to the basement/storage room at around midnight (which has a very small ventilation fan for humidity,not really enough vent. and Certainly not a booth..)and spraying and then taking the parts up to my Apt. where it's warm..(I have to sleep w/ a few windows cracked open..). I just sprayed the tank(it's a little NC50 2 speed that I'm restoring for sale in Spring)which is a seat-over style and also sprayed a fresh can of Duplicolor #BCL0125 clear top coat,I gave it a few heavy coats 30 mins after I sprayed the color coat.
My questions to you are first: how long should I let the paint 'out gas'/cure before I put the fuel tank(carefully.. ::) )into service/up for sale w/ the bike ? and: Will the Duplicolor clear coat offer me any protection from fuel spills ? Thanks ;)

Lacquer based stuff is 24-48 hours, if it is the acrylic enamel it is 7 days to full cure. But read the cans, they tell you Except the lacquer I think it has a 0 recoat so it doesn't say. Also the Lacquer clears are 0 fuel safe, one spill for more than a few seconds without being washed off fast with soap and water and it will peel right off. That being said, DO NOT get 2K and spray it the way you are the lacquers, you'll be dead. My advice is to let the lacquer based stuff cure and leave it. If you can find a place outdoors when the weather improves and can invest in a proper respirator you could do a final coat of 2K but only if you have a spot with no folks or pets around etc. IT hardens to full cure in 48 hours and is fuel stabil. I know I spilled gas on my CX tank at leas 3 times and just wiped it off and no damage.
 
OK Maritime,I understand what you're saying about being safe and protecting my health and my other neighbors. ::) ;)
I wondered if it would be acceptable for me to take the tank to a local body shop at this point to have them spray a cost effective 'fuel spill safe' clearcoat over my Duplicolor lacquer ? My biggest thing now is trying to overcome the problem of low $, but I will get it done right for the next owner.
 
That would be the best and if you just ask them to clear it, no other prep, they may do it cheap. They will likely not guarantee but that should be fine. If you bring it in wet sanded and ready, they may do it along with something else at the same time. Worth a try.
 
Be prepared for a ration of shit or take it to Earl Shibe... arrogance abounds at any specialty shop.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Be prepared for a ration of shit or take it to Earl Shibe... arrogance abounds at any specialty shop.

Yep, there will be some shit, but some shops will do it, tell you no guarantees but shoot it along with something else. We have a couple small shops here that will do the work from start to finish, or half way or just the clear, but only guarantee the work they do from start to finish, which is perfectly understandable. They won't turn down making some dollars though for 10 min of spraying.
 
Maritime said:
Yep, there will be some shit, but some shops will do it, tell you no guarantees but shoot it along with something else. We have a couple small shops here that will do the work from start to finish, or half way or just the clear, but only guarantee the work they do from start to finish, which is perfectly understandable. They won't turn down making some dollars though for 10 min of spraying.

Ok,gotch'ya, I found this place called 'Kool Ray' last year and took some sidecovers and a tank to him and i think they might do it.. That urethane clear,is that what i want ?
 
Also, here is the CX I did, Duplicolor Metal Specks Burnt Copper Rattle. Duplicolor gunmetal wheet paint for the swoosh. 2K Spraymax clear. On the tank and the seat cowel. It was supposed to be a test paint job as it was the first time using the clear but it has been on the bike now for 2 season going on 3, it is ridden in rain, sits in the sun 10+ hours a day and has had gas spilled on it at least 3 times as the tank goes to almost full to past full really quick LOL. More fuel to the debate. This is to show the durability. I think it is as good as if I used a gun etc. but again. Limited choices on colour.
 

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grcamna5 said:
Ok,gotch'ya, I found this place called 'Kool Ray' last year and took some sidecovers and a tank to him and i think they might do it.. That urethane clear,is that what i want ?

Yes, the 2 part urethane is the stuff that resists fuel. fade, flaking.
 
To add to this, The durability, quality of the rattle job will depend a lot on the product/brand you use. I have been renovating my house, it has tan baseboard heaters that don't match the white trim, so instead of buying new, when we paint a room, I pull the heater and hit it with a coat of Duplicolor enamel gloss white. They look amazing, that paint looks like factory white, smooth, shiny and holds up to family life, scuffs wipe right off etc. now, we did a bathroom and I had no Duplicolor, it was Sunday and the only place open was Wal-Mart, I wanted to get the heater done so I went and grabbed a Krylon white enamel all they had, big mistake, that paint laid down like complete crap, was not smooth, wanted to flake off and generally was miserable to work with, it splattered big drops out of the nozzle. I ended up having to sand all that crap off and wait to get the good paint and redo it. The first heaters were done 3.5 years ago when we did the very first room over in the house and they still look like new. So as much as I agree the gun and compressor allows more choice in colour, effects, etc. I don;t agree that rattle cans won't last as long. Use the right ones, and you will be fine. Also, most body shops these days will mix custom paint, in a can of the same type for you to use, however it is pricey and you could buy guns, and a compressor and pay for it over 2-3 paint jobs when you are looking at $30 a can vrs $5.99 for off the shelf.
 
Maritime said:
Yes, the 2 part urethane is the stuff that resists fuel. fade, flaking.

The other option I was considering was borrowing a good respirator from a guy and buying a can of that '2K' Who's got the best deal online for a can of it? and what's the full name of the product ?
 
grcamna5 said:
The other option I was considering was borrowing a good respirator from a guy and buying a can of that '2K' Who's got the best deal online for a can of it? and what's the full name of the product ?

You can buy a 3M single use for cheap enough and if you put it in the bag it will last a week or so but no longer, if you have a beard you need to figure that in also... this is why I like to buy beer for the painter man... all the shit it takes to be safe, all the shit to clean up, all the shit you "should" do to dispose of the toxic crap... rubbing over spray off the wife's new car that was out by the effing curb... bla bla bla...
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
You can buy a 3M single use for cheap enough and if you put it in the bag it will last a week or so but no longer, if you have a beard you need to figure that in also... this is why I like to buy beer for the painter man... all the shit it takes to be safe, all the shit to clean up, all the shit you "should" do to dispose of the toxic crap... rubbing over spray off the wife's new car that was out by the effing curb... bla bla bla...

That '2K' clear is 3M? and it has a 'shelf life'? Then I should get the most fresh stuff I can.
 
grcamna5 said:
That '2K' clear is 3M? and it has a 'shelf life'? Then I should get the most fresh stuff I can.

Ha HA no sorry I get short winded then go long sometimes... 3M respirator throw away, just ask the mixoligist for the correct filtration lol
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Ha HA no sorry I get short winded then go long sometimes... 3M respirator throw away, just ask the mixoligist for the correct filtration lol

I live not far from Greensburg,PA.(Pittsburgh area & just moved here)and just wondered what store can I buy the '2K' and the single use 3M respirator ? Autozone,etc. ?
 
grcamna5 said:
I live not far from Greensburg,PA.(Pittsburgh area & just moved here)and just wondered what store can I buy the '2K' and the single use 3M respirator ? Autozone,etc. ?

If you have a Napa they have it, otherwise call around
 
I get the Spraymax 2K at NAPA in Canada, you can get it at most auto stores with a paint side. I had to shave to do this paint job, which sucks but it grows back, a little whiter each time LOL.
 
Maritime said:
I get the Spraymax 2K at NAPA in Canada, you can get it at most auto stores with a paint side. I had to shave to do this paint job, which sucks but it grows back, a little whiter each time LOL.

From what you've told me so far this Spraymax 2K is very toxic,but a great product;I'll be wearing clothes,etc. to protect my self and be spraying at my storage locker/outside+ taking a shower within an hr. after spraying it.The product should cure quickly,right? even in 45-50 degree weather ?
 
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