Spray Gun vs Spray Paint - The Debate Thread

it kicks pretty fast and dries to the touch, you can likely bring it inside after it is dry to finish cure as I am pretty sure the odors dissipate pretty quick after spraying. I did the last parts outside and brought them in like 2 hours after and there was no more smell. It is in the application that it is nasty.
 
Powder coat is an excellent base coat for painting on top. Scuffed and painted it makes a better base than a paint primer for durability.
 
o1marc said:
Powder coat is an excellent base coat for painting on top. Scuffed and painted it makes a better base than a paint primer for durability.
Just have to manage possible reactions.
 
I couldn't find a retailer for the Spraymax 2K locally.. so I'm giving it to a local body shop after prep and masking for a great deal to clear my parts w/ their urethane clear.
 
grcamna5 said:
I couldn't find a retailer for the Spraymax 2K locally.. so I'm giving it to a local body shop after prep and masking for a great deal to clear my parts w/ their urethane clear.

Good deal.
 
Well all is not always roses, I did the fenders 2 nights ago and looked them over last night and notice I got some reaction on one of them that wrinkled the yellow, so I now have to re-prep and do over that one, Which sucks but it is 5.99 a can paint, not 35.99. Not sure if the temp wasn't up enough, or I didn't wipe it enough times with the degreaser or what.
 
Maritime said:
Well all is not always roses, I did the fenders 2 nights ago and looked them over last night and notice I got some reaction on one of them that wrinkled the yellow, so I now have to re-prep and do over that one, Which sucks but it is 5.99 a can paint, not 35.99. Not sure if the temp wasn't up enough, or I didn't wipe it enough times with the degreaser or what.

i have a question here for you guys:

i´m based in vienna,austria.

my way to go will be:

spray max 2K filler/surfacer
dupli color metallic blue (nitro acrylic base)
and then 2K spray max clear

talked to my dealer today in austria and he told me that the US duplicolor is a different firm then the european one.its hard from me to get the american dupli color stuff!
so my questions are:

duplicolor metal speckle blue: is this color acrylic nitro based in the US?
you had good experiences with combining these products,but maybe the US cans are differently based than the European ones...


will i have problems with combining Spray Max and Dupli color products?

the spray max 2K filler/surfacer is epoxy resin based,curing agent:amines

the spray 2K clear is acrylic resin based,curing agent:isocyanate (!!poison :) !!)

will these mess with my Dupli Acrylic paint?


sorry for messing with the thread!
 
Ryan, I'll see if I can grab the data from the label on my Metal specks I have at home. It should say, but you can also get the MSDS off the duplicolor website for the US market stuff and it should tell you. Compare it to the MSDS of the Euro market and if the same, you will be ok.
 
Maritime said:
Ryan, I'll see if I can grab the data from the label on my Metal specks I have at home. It should say, but you can also get the MSDS off the duplicolor website for the US market stuff and it should tell you. Compare it to the MSDS of the Euro market and if the same, you will be ok.

tried looking at the technical sheet of the US metal speckle product....no info about the components used...i jsut worry that the european paint is different and will mess with the spray max products.

you did use dupli and spray max products together dont you?
 
yep 2 times now and going on a third. Spraymax says it is compatible with any paint, as long as it is fully cured, so worst case is you may have to wait. But the Metal specks here is lacquer based so it has 0 cure time, as long as it is dry you can clear over, the enamel I am using needs a week. I Am betting the EUR is same spec. do you have a store local that sells it you can go read the can? I used the 2k right over the metal specks as soon as it was dry to the touch with no issues.
 
I'd like to hear more from the members here who mix their own and spray in a spray gun,do you have to put in lot's of hardener for colder weather ?
 
grcamna5 said:
I'd like to hear more from the members here who mix their own and spray in a spray gun,do you have to put in lot's of hardener for colder weather ?

Yep, me too. I just found out I may inherit a bigger compressor so guns may be in my future.
 
I'm not a professional painter, but no, I don't add extra hardener. That messes with the viscosity of the paint and changes the way it sprays. I do have a booth though, so weather isn't much a factor.
 
Maritime said:
Well all is not always roses, I did the fenders 2 nights ago and looked them over last night and notice I got some reaction on one of them that wrinkled the yellow, so I now have to re-prep and do over that one, Which sucks but it is 5.99 a can paint, not 35.99. Not sure if the temp wasn't up enough, or I didn't wipe it enough times with the degreaser or what.


[disclaimer] Me No Painter.

I think this might be more of a case of something under the base coat than on it, seems I ran into this on a tail in the past... any plastic filler under that spot?
 
grcamna5 said:
I'd like to hear more from the members here who mix their own and spray in a spray gun,do you have to put in lot's of hardener for colder weather ?

Absolutely NOT. That is a great way to have a disaster on your hands. You need to use products that are made for the temperature range you're painting in. Always refer to the manufacturers guidelines for preparation and application of their products. For painting, there are some great tips on the southern polyurethane's site (refer to perfect paint job)
 
FGKouki said:
Absolutely NOT. That is a great way to have a disaster on your hands. You need to use products that are made for the temperature range you're painting in. Always refer to the manufacturers guidelines for preparation and application of their products. For painting, there are some great tips on the southern polyurethane's site (refer to perfect paint job)

I hadn't done it,was only using that as an example;tell us more about your own mixing and what works.
 
Just an idea for now, but how about taking an old drier and gutting it, put some legs on it, cut a bigger front opening and use the exhaust exit to create a downdraft system in the floor add a lazy suzann with adjustable rack maybe fingers dipped in tool dip... Wha La... nice little cycle booth. Could do the same for a blast cabinet no? some plexi and a replacement set of gloves?
 
LOL that could work. I was reading the 2K application guide, mostly to triple check I got the right respirator and cartridges which I did, it it it states you can sure it to a more durable finish with IR, so google and that is Infrared heat and I am now borrowing one of those IR heaters and will build a temp oven to cure, needs to be 60 C or 140 F so that should be easy and I will have a full cure in 30 mins.
 
How about an oven set at 150 degrees for a 1/2 hr.? should we let the paint 'out gas' for a few hrs.,days before putting it in the heat ?
 
grcamna5 said:
How about an oven set at 150 degrees for a 1/2 hr.? should we let the paint 'out gas' for a few hrs.,days before putting it in the heat ?

That depends on the paint and never in the kitchen if you want to stay alive and or married LOL. An oven in the garage with ventalation would work. I will be making the IR oven out side in a tarp tent with a vent to fresh air.

That being said, the Duplicolor engine paint can be baked after dry and it says on the can, "vapors not harmful" and I have baked parts with that in a toaster oven and it really didn't smell bad. Still did it in the garage. So that one paint you may get away with, but they are all different.
 
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