The SkyTeam 'Ace' Resource
- Thread starter stroker crazy
- Start date
orrible-64
Coast to Coast
bike came off of side stand when i was washing it. grabbed it and over rotated my lift wrist. went pop. took the tip(styloid process) off my left ulnar bone(the thin one in forearm . at least there was no pain. just clicked when i twisted arm.
thanks for asking . was being careful not to hurt myself...well that didn't go so well. find out tomorrow more details and get a proper cast(in a backslab at moment,they do that incase of swelling).
thanks for asking . was being careful not to hurt myself...well that didn't go so well. find out tomorrow more details and get a proper cast(in a backslab at moment,they do that incase of swelling).
orrible-64
Coast to Coast
2b the stock header is full of faults , most likely the chrome one too. pipe is welded just inside the inlet end that closed pipe to 21mm
the header is double wall and the crush points on the inner pipe on the bends also restricts the pipe significantly. lastly the cats if you have the black pipe (two of them) are restrictive.
mine was cut off at 3-5 cm past flange and an automotive exhaust tube header was welded on 41mm outer diameter, recently i ground out restriction in tip of stub remaining from original system with aflame shaped carbide burr. whilst i was grinding i matched the port to the pipe and gasket. this extra step was not necessary .i will let you know of any measured gain in this next time bike is on dyno. i only rode the bike once after this but felt like it improved things. was going to build a reverse cone muffler to replace my restrictive box but can't weld at the moment. looking at reverse cone box from mostyn industries.
the header is double wall and the crush points on the inner pipe on the bends also restricts the pipe significantly. lastly the cats if you have the black pipe (two of them) are restrictive.
mine was cut off at 3-5 cm past flange and an automotive exhaust tube header was welded on 41mm outer diameter, recently i ground out restriction in tip of stub remaining from original system with aflame shaped carbide burr. whilst i was grinding i matched the port to the pipe and gasket. this extra step was not necessary .i will let you know of any measured gain in this next time bike is on dyno. i only rode the bike once after this but felt like it improved things. was going to build a reverse cone muffler to replace my restrictive box but can't weld at the moment. looking at reverse cone box from mostyn industries.
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
I replaced my header with 1" metal electrical conduit piping. This has given an internal diameter of around 22mm, a big improvement. However I must stress that the silencer MUST produce back pressure to optimise the OHV engine. I drilled all the baffle plates so the sum area of the holes added up to 22mm.
2b
Been Around the Block
Any one else got wire colours that don't match the diagram in the back of the manual?
For example
High Beam
diagram:Yellow/White actually: Dark Blue
Low Beam
diagram: Pink actually: White
Neutral lamp
diagram: Green/White actually Green/Brown
etc etc
Slowed me down a bit with wiring up new front end. But a wee 9v battery with some jumper leads helped me sort what is what.
For example
High Beam
diagram:Yellow/White actually: Dark Blue
Low Beam
diagram: Pink actually: White
Neutral lamp
diagram: Green/White actually Green/Brown
etc etc
Slowed me down a bit with wiring up new front end. But a wee 9v battery with some jumper leads helped me sort what is what.
2b
Been Around the Block
And lastly, I have a spare warning light on my new speedo/tacho that I haven't got a use for yet. Thinking of using it as a warning when the sidestand is down, is it possible to alter the sidestand switch so that it is On when stand down and Off when it is up i.e. the opposite of what it is now? And then I think I would still run the current Black cable in to it and run the other cable to my warning light cable.
sprocket2cog
Been Around the Block
maybe use a normally closed relay to switch the side stand switch over. so when its down and off the relay de energizers and the contacts for the light circuit close
or if you get a change over relay which switches both ways from an auto store you can have it do the kill engine normaly closed (stand down) and then normally open (stand up) to turn on the light.
edit- there is no power to the side stand switch, its a switch to close out earth to the CDI from what i can see in wiring dig. you would need to cut wires on the switch and run positve from the positive power on the bike to run the relay though the switch
or if you get a change over relay which switches both ways from an auto store you can have it do the kill engine normaly closed (stand down) and then normally open (stand up) to turn on the light.
edit- there is no power to the side stand switch, its a switch to close out earth to the CDI from what i can see in wiring dig. you would need to cut wires on the switch and run positve from the positive power on the bike to run the relay though the switch
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
stroker crazy said:Some recent photos:
and:
Crazy
Really diggin this functional work of art... not bad for a hipster hahaha!!
You know... I've had my hands on a fair share of Honda XL100-200's anf have a 185 now, the frame on this seems very similar and I think with a recreated subframe and some axe and sledge hammer work I may be able to pound something close out. Any chance I could just get one of those gorgeous tanks and seat/tail section from the factory parts program?
Also I don't know if you would be interested (might help with tune and off the bottom snap), but I just yesterday received in the mail a pair of I belive and will verify 26mm Keihin carbs with accelerator pump and choice of manual or cable choke for $40 ea. eBay add with listing: http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=cenn2010&item=161446088160&_osacat=0&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1311.R1.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xcarber.TRS0&_nkw=carburetor&_sacat=0
Image of my carbs
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stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
Thanks for the carby recommendation!
I've got this waiting to be fitted and fettled, but I'm sure there will be others interested in the Keihin:
As for the tank etc., your nearest supplier is probably this one:
https://www.ooracing.com/store/cafe-racer-full-kit.html
https://www.ooracing.com/store/tank-cafe-racer-suitable-for-ace-50-125.html
Crazy
I've got this waiting to be fitted and fettled, but I'm sure there will be others interested in the Keihin:
As for the tank etc., your nearest supplier is probably this one:
https://www.ooracing.com/store/cafe-racer-full-kit.html
https://www.ooracing.com/store/tank-cafe-racer-suitable-for-ace-50-125.html
Crazy
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
ACEitup said:
Ha!
Crazy
Son of a Gun
Active Member
Hey 2b, did you en up getting the Tumbleton and Twist tacho/speedo? If so please let me know how it goes! I'm really keen to get one myself
2b
Been Around the Block
Son of a Gun said:
Yep I did get it. It looks as good in real life as it does in the pictures
Once fitted, along with the ignition key move, new headlight and new indicators, I will put some pictures up.Here are some pics as they are.
Rubber strip in the headlight and indicator pics is to fatten up the forks and I will use double sided tape to secure it to the forks. Will also use double sided tape to secure a cool belt to the tank.
I will not have the nut in between the indicator and the extender stem, have tapped the stem out far enough that it is no longer needed.
Check out how skinny the wires on the speedo/tacho are, had to buy the smallest block connectors I could find (i did a 2 way for the power and the others in a 6 way). You will see in the back of the speedo pic that it comes with some orange splicers. Not using these to splice in to existing cables. Using regular bullet connectors to splice my way in as I don't trust those orange ones to be reliable, particularly where I need to splice in to ignition power wires.
Cheers
Richard
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stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
Has anyone got first hand knowledge of the quality of Borrani rims as currently manufactured.
Borrani seem to be the only manufacturer offering the 18" x 1.4 needed to replace the front steel rim on the 'Ace'.
There seems to be no distributor in Oz so I would have to buy them sight unseen from Italy.
Crazy
Borrani seem to be the only manufacturer offering the 18" x 1.4 needed to replace the front steel rim on the 'Ace'.
There seems to be no distributor in Oz so I would have to buy them sight unseen from Italy.
Crazy
orrible-64
Coast to Coast
guessing 18x 185 or 18 x 2,15 way too big
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
stevodude said:
The website appears inactive, but emailed anyway.
orrible-64 said:
There's very little clearance at the front. Even with the original guard removed there is only a small gap to the fork legs.
I like the handling as it is and would prefer to avoid going to larger wheels if possible!
Crazy
waketrip
New Member
stroker crazy said:
I've actually been doing some extensive research on this subject, since I'm in the process of swapping rims myself (front came warped from factory and wobbles slightly)
What wasting countless hours has taught me so far:
- Finding a front rim in stock measure 1.4x18 is nigh impossible. Where and when available, they tend to be no-name steel rims with shady quality at best.
- I've phoned Avon (speedmaster tyre), Dunlop (k82 tyre), Heidenau (k44, k65, k39 and k45 tyres), and michelin (pilot street tyre)
distributors and all of them have invariably stated that the actual reccommended rims for a 2.75(or 80/90 equ.) and 3.00 (90/90 equ.) are 1.6x18 front and 1.85 rear Rims. 1.4 front and 1.6 rear rims are below or marginally fit the optimal range for these tyre measures. Now this, although not potentially death-incurring ( I don't know of anyone going up in flames because of this, myself included ;D ) means that the tyre is slightly pinched into the rim, and the contact patch and tread pattern are modified, thus not allowing the tyre to perform its best. Modern metric tyres (80/90 and 90/90) more so, as they're slightly wider than their equivalent counterparts.
- BORRANI RIMS:
As some of you may know, Borrani started to produce motorcycle alloy wheels again in 2012. These Borrani wheels come in different spec ranges:
--- Borrani Record/14 rims. These are the ''standard'' quality alloy rims. nothing special about them. They say they have Morad equivalent quality.
--- Borrani Record/11 Rims. These are the interesting ones. after getting in touch with the motocicliveloci company in Italy (They're somehow directly linked to the factory, and are official distributors) they told me they are the direct replica of the high quality 70's rims. They told me the finish is higher quality than record/14 rims, lighter, and 10% ''rounder'' (if that makes any sense).
---Borrani reinforced. same quality as record/14 presumably, stronger structure and therefore heavier. Not needed for a bike this size and weight.
Now, General opinion is that, while the record/11 rims are not exactly like 70's rims ( quite logical, i'm willing to think this is just the factory showing off a little), they are quite high quality rims with a very nice fit and finish.
There has been talk on the internet that these new borrani manufactured wheels are just restamped chinese made wheels, but this is wrong as far as I can tell. It is my understanding that the raw material and the rough shape of the wheel is sourced from china under borrani's specs (here in Europe, enviromental laws have all but killed off most metal processing plants) , then it is shipped to borrani's factory in Italy to be welded, have holes drilled and be finished by hand, using borrani's own machinery.
- Borrani makes a 1.4x18 wheel, but it is of the record/14 type.
- What I'm going for is Borrani's 1.6x18 front rim and 1.85x18 rear Record/11's with stock size 2.75x18 and 90/90x18 Michelin pilot streets. Rear clearances are no issue, front rim will however probably rub against stock front mudguard (i had to very slightly bend outwards the lateral braces of the fender when I mounted the michelins, in part because of the original wobbly rim). Front forks are wide enough to accept a 1.6 rim.
I'm however planning to replace the front guard with an aluminium alloy one that will not have lateral braces, as this is the part that rubs in the original mudguard. I have taken apart the front mudguard when i installed the new tyres and holy moly it is heavy! I'm certain that new alloy wheels with new aluminium mudguard will make the bike handling heaps better. (DO NOT however, be tempted to eliminate the front fender completely. I rode the bike without it when i changed the tyres to test out how flexy they were, and well lets say they were borderline scary in 90+ km/h twisty roads. The pathetic 27mm forks need all the bracing they can get, the poor things.) I dont reccomend running a fiberglass fender for this very reason, unless you plan to attach it to a metal bridge holder mounting to the forks.
Hope this helps!!
PS: Oh dear god what a wall of text. So sorry guys, hope the detailed information makes up for it.
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
waketrip said:Oh dear god what a wall of text. So sorry guys, hope the detailed information makes up for it.
Great post waketrip!
Just the sort of thing I was hoping to get. Full reply later, I'm heading for work now.
Crazy
