1974 CB360 Fallin' Ditch Hell Ride

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
trek97 said:
Wait what? The other seat was pretty darned neat. :eek:
Haha. I want to give this solo seat idea a look. Going back to what I envision for the purpose of the bike, which is a gravel/sand road beater, it makes sense to have a solo seat and rear rack. That describes more of a scrambler than a tracker.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Did you measure (or know) primary resistance of the Emgo coils? Usually the 'tiny' ones are designed for CDI ignition and will burn out on a points system
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
crazypj said:
Did you measure (or know) primary resistance of the Emgo coils? Usually the 'tiny' ones are designed for CDI ignition and will burn out on a points system
Might it help to keep them cooler if he maxed out points gap?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I don't have points on here. Still though, I think the resistance has to be 3 - 5 ohms.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Leave it to PJ to rain on my BBQ. No worries though. In the spirit of being cheap, I dug out a couple of coils that didn't work and "rebuilt" them. I broke off all the epoxy around the base of the plug wire and the connectors. Then I cut off the ground and power wires, leaving clean terminals. I twisted and pulled the spark plug wire out of the coil body. The plug wire is pushed onto a pin in the same way the plug cap is done. I drilled out the plug wire hole to 8mm down to the pin. Then I pushed the plug wire in, checked resistance (9.5k ohms), and epoxied them in. I checked resistance again before the epoxy set. Then soldered the lead wires- one with yellow, one with blue, a black/white, and a black. Put new NGK resistor caps on, checked primary resistance (14.5k ohms), and secondary resistance (4 ohms). Lastly, I coated the solder connections with liquid rubber.












Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
You can use the small ones if you toss in a 2Ω or 3Ω power resistor. 50W should be enough, but 60W would be better.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/292098243662
 

Tune-A-Fish

BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

redwillissuperman

Keep it simple- engine, wheels, bars
Tune-A-Fish said:
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Should hold up to this....
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Tune-A-Fish© said:
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Thanks, Tune. The plan for the seat is something like the early KX/XR/CR seats. If they'd fit this frame better, I'd just fit one of those. So, should be plenty of pad. May see if I can find a cheap pad and use it for the foam.


I think I agree about the fender too. I love the shape of the early XL fenders, front and back.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Got it all wired up and lit it on fire. Amazingly, this GL Dyna works like a charm. Needs some adjustment in the carbs and the seal behind the advancer leaks like a sieve. Fortunately, I bought all the seals, so it just a matter of swap . I hope I can do it without loosening any bolts.

https://youtu.be/TxeQjbnuj7U
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Well, it ran on one cylinder because the Dyna rotor needed two opposing magnets instead of just the one it had. I should've known, but it took me flipping the rotor to realize what was going in. For some reason having two sensors at 90° is all I though it needed, but it's also 2:1 which requires the extra magnet. So, I drill a hole opposite the other magnet and epoxied a tiny fridge magnet in. Now, it actually runs like a 378cc bike should run. A little rough at the low end, so I'll double check the advance and move on to the carb tuning.
 

Hurco550

Keep er' Between the ditches
DTT BOTM WINNER
irk miller said:
Well, it ran on one cylinder because the Dyna rotor needed two opposing magnets instead of just the one it had. I should've known, but it took me flipping the rotor to realize what was going in. For some reason having two sensors at 90° is all I though it needed, but it's also 2:1 which requires the extra magnet. So, I drill a hole opposite the other magnet and epoxied a tiny fridge magnet in. Now, it actually runs like a 378cc bike should run. A little rough at the low end, so I'll double check the advance and move on to the carb tuning.
even with the low end running rough, is it still a noticeable difference from a stock 360 vs a 378?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
HURCO550 said:
even with the low end running rough, is it still a noticeable difference from a stock 360 vs a 378?
For sure. PJ's carb mod does wonders for the stock motor, though. This also has an XL250 44 tooth rear sprocket, as opposed to the stock 34 tooth CB's came with.
 

Hurco550

Keep er' Between the ditches
DTT BOTM WINNER
irk miller said:
For sure. PJ's carb mod does wonders for the stock motor, though. This also has an XL250 44 tooth rear sprocket, as opposed to the stock 34 tooth CB's came with.
dang 10 tooth jump in the rear! WHEEEEELLLIEEEE TIMEEEEEE

that's awesome man. Ridesolo is doing the 378 with pj carbs. Im looking forward to riding the little booger whenever he gets it done
 
Top Bottom