2x stroke street tracker - project coming together slowly.

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Hi all, blimey was my last post back in July??
I've been back working so found very little time to get into the garage...life getting in the way etc.

Anyhoo...a small task has been set in motion. The Microns attach by way of a spigot that is bolted to the barrel, the pipes then slide onto the spigot and held in place by exhaust springs...check.
To have the Microns sit/position correctly along the bike I had to extend the spigots by approx 50-60mm and give them a slight 15* bend to align with the Micron downpipe fitting.

I had bodged a short pipe to the existing spigot with a zorst clamp, which proved the concept and requirement.
You can see what I'd done in the image.
I've now spoken to a stainless exhaust specialist....just around the corner from me..yay, and he's going to make the one piece spigot and provide new 2xbolt flanges to suit. It'll look a whole lot neater when the fella's finished.

So that's my news... :)
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Well...looky looky here....reporting for recording duty. I'm back in the saddle as they say.....having spent the last couple of months sourcing a good exhaust guy, I've finally got the Suzonda in this coming week. Been sorting the tank removal and bodywork in readiness to throw it in the back of my mate's van to drop it down the road. There, the custom fit exhaust mounting spigots will be fabbed in stainless and....as the shop is on private land I can carry out a test ride to ensure all works together.

We're still in Covid lockdown so movements are restricted but weather is also playing it's part.....no rush to get it outside on this cold/wet....I have time to strip and rebuild, paint frame ( brush/roller painted tractor grey enamel) and reassemble and tweeking fitments etc to completion. It's good to have something to report :)

This is the stainless 42mm o/d 306 tube to be cut n shut, a retaining flange welded on and two new spring eyes as well as new flanges. Should look quite neat I hope. And, the 350LC Microns will remain untouched or modded.
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
It's at the zorst shop....hoping the mods will be done on Saturday :)
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Nearly done....just another spring tab each side. Loving the thick, purposeful flanges....makes the engine look tough imo.

Going to fire it up and ride around the farmyard tomorrow.
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Sidestand modified: extended by 40mm, correctly using a double spigot insert tigged into place , then the extended foot lever added, made out of 10mm stainless bar. I'll paint the leg, but keep the polished s/steel.
Engine mounts were tacked in place.

My anticipated fire up n ride didn't work out....it wouldn't start. A combination of weak spark, poor fuel flow to carbs and stale fuel conspired to thwart my attempts.

New coil incoming.
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Suzonda - Tinkering with it today...figuring why it wont fire up.
Carbs off and found a green waxy gel inside the bowls so carb cleaner and a blow out has them clean. Flushed stale fuel out of the tank along with some crud.
Petcock, brand new oem Honda, is caked with more green shite, completely blocked the internal filter left it off for the moment.
New online fuel filter also green, new one on.
Still no go.
Starter solenoid (new) failed now!!.

I've had enough for today....2 steps forward as they say :/
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
This happened today....a sturdy bike bench on castors from a biker neighbour for 30 of our English pounds.

Coil and starter solenoid are in. Hoping to get on it v/soon.
 

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NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Brief update. New starter solenoid installed to replace the new starter solenoid.
The new twin outlet coil pack is a different size and layout, so a modified mounting bracket will have to be fashioned.
Step follows step...

:)
 

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
I need help guys. The bastard Suzonda won't fire up.....despite our best efforts.

Freshly rebuilt with new crankseal/bearing etc, all professionally installed and the engine built up by a very experienced bike tech.
Slotted in to the frame and it fired up and ran, lovely.
It then sat for 6 months....when I tried to fire it up again last month it wouldn't??
Found the old fuel had gone stale and a green residue had coated the entire fuel supply, petcock gauze, inline filter and carb internals, float bowls had a green waxy residue.
Cleaned out everything, left out the petcock gauze and fresh fuel/oil 25:1 mix (until the oil pump would bleed) but still wouldn't fire.
It's trying to fire but no amount of testing, new coil & plugs but still it won't run.
We suspect the centre crank seal as there is some blow back through the carbs....surely that's not right?
Getting good compression (no readings, but a finger test) having spun it up on the starter it's trying to fire and there is a wisp of exhaust, but no response on the throttle.
We've splashed fuel through the plug holes and syringed some through the carb intakes....nothing.
Spark is good n strong.

The generator/flywheel appears to be fitted correctly, on a keyway, there is oil in the gen case but that's normal, right?
The manual I have states ignition timing at 24* BTDC.....how is this measured or adjusted?

We suspect the brand new centre crank seal has failed as the blow back through the carbs is not normal, is it???

Is there something we're missing??

Any input appreciated, thank you.
 

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unclerob

Been Around the Block
Thats a bit of a bugger Colin....especially as you're so close to done!
Bear in mind it was half a lifetime ago that I last worked on a 2 stroke but I'd have thought it unlikely the seal would just go abruptly....more likely there'd have been symptoms before....hard to start/poor idle?
I did at one time build Suzuki 250 single race bike engines and we used to pressure test the crankcase to check seal condition.....by blanking off inlet and exhaust ports and pumping some air in through the plug hole.....only a few psi though!
Other thought is something I used to come across a lot on smallish bikes.....though uncertain if it applies to yours or not.....though they seemed to spark ok at the plug I found that dirt/damp etc on the contacts on the back of the ignition switch (or sometimes kill switch) caused tracking problems (sometimes you could actually see a mark joining the terminals) and once the plug was back in the engine the spark must have been very weak.....
Maybe worth a look?
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
I agree on a pressure test. If the center seal is a labyrinth like the Yamaha, they just fon't fail. Timing is usually speced and adjusted as BTDC in mm. On my RD400c it is 2.2 mm, but that was with 70s gas. They suggest 1.8-2.0 mm now. It is measured and set with a dial indicator on top of the piston and a test light.
 

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Thats a bit of a bugger Colin....especially as you're so close to done!
Bear in mind it was half a lifetime ago that I last worked on a 2 stroke but I'd have thought it unlikely the seal would just go abruptly....more likely there'd have been symptoms before....hard to start/poor idle?
I did at one time build Suzuki 250 single race bike engines and we used to pressure test the crankcase to check seal condition.....by blanking off inlet and exhaust ports and pumping some air in through the plug hole.....only a few psi though!
Other thought is something I used to come across a lot on smallish bikes.....though uncertain if it applies to yours or not.....though they seemed to spark ok at the plug I found that dirt/damp etc on the contacts on the back of the ignition switch (or sometimes kill switch) caused tracking problems (sometimes you could actually see a mark joining the terminals) and once the plug was back in the engine the spark must have been very weak.....
Maybe worth a look?
Thank you. The only part not new is the CDi unit....would a faulty unit deliver a weak or out of time spark?
 

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
I agree on a pressure test. If the center seal is a labyrinth like the Yamaha, they just fon't fail. Timing is usually speced and adjusted as BTDC in mm. On my RD400c it is 2.2 mm, but that was with 70s gas. They suggest 1.8-2.0 mm now. It is measured and set with a dial indicator on top of the piston and a test light.
Thanks Jonesy, Could a cooked CDi unit fail and cause the non starting symptoms I wonder? My son rigged up an earth cut out...which means the CDi might have been 'live' and then cooked? What exactly does the CDi unit do?
Cheers
 

Maritime

Over 10,000 Posts
CDI is capacitor discharge ignition. So if its fried which can happen the spark can be all frigged up.
 

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Ok, been thinking this through and didn't get an answer on FB. The generator cover/casing had gearbox oil in it....about 200ml according to the drip tray we had to put under it. Should this oil be there? and will it affect the timing pick-ups ?
 

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TresCuatros

Active Member
If you verified spark and you manually introduced fuel, the only thing left is compression. Given your order of events, I'm wondering if you have a stuck ring allowing too much compression loss.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
There are guys on 2strokeworld.net with 2T for blood. They would be who I would go to for 2 stroke tech assist.
 

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