$50 mod thread

I'm not sure what else is in Barkeepers Friend, but it is gritty (abrasive). Its main cleaning agent is oxalic acid though. You would have to read the can. It is powder so it seems like your wood bleach would be better.
 
I dont want to threadjack or get off topic but im wondering if that solid state rectifier upgrade i bought will be enough to be ok with my H4 headlight. Im still wiring my bike and wont know till its all done.
 
it will be fine as long as you have a tender for it at night.. that H4 will take ALOT of power brother, but if you run LED lighting thought he rest you should be fine... Steve is the man, hit him up he will be able to let you know.. he is my go to guy on electrical needs!
 
bar tenders best friend ROCKS!!! i use it all the time to clean up metal!!! then you really have to clean it afterwards with some denatured alchole or PREP... but it work great!
 
JRK5892 said:
it will be fine as long as you have a tender for it at night.. that H4 will take ALOT of power brother, but if you run LED lighting thought he rest you should be fine... Steve is the man, hit him up he will be able to let you know.. he is my go to guy on electrical needs!
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I just ordered my LED bulbs and already bought my new headlight. I was planning on doing a $50 mod post once I installed everything. The stock bulb on my CL450 is a 50/35 W sealed beam. I bought a bright white 65/55 W halogen that I am going to put on after installing my LED bulbs. I bought LED bulbs for the gauges as well.
 
Flugtechnik said:
I just ordered my LED bulbs and already bought my new headlight. I was planning on doing a $50 mod post once I installed everything. The stock bulb on my CL450 is a 50/35 W sealed beam. I bought a bright white 65/55 W halogen that I am going to put on after installing my LED bulbs. I bought LED bulbs for the gauges as well.
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point me in the LED gauge bulb direction, i have a LED tail light and H4 headlight (no directionals) and im starting to worry because i dont have power in the garage to run a battery tender, plus my battery is tiny
Nominal Voltage: 12V
Capacity @ 20 hr rate: 8.5ah
Case Quantity: 5
Dimensions: 5.94"L x 2.56W x 3.86H
 
auto aluminations! great great stuff!!! my brother just got LED prjections for his fog lights and they are STUPID bright
 
Derek4Real3 said:
point me in the LED gauge bulb direction,
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I got mine from here, Enkmall, an Ebay store. I believe the Ba9s bulbs should fit the CB gauges. $2.40 each (I got 5) vs. $7 each from autolumination. They are being shipped from Hong Kong so I should get them in about 2 months. :D
 
Derek4Real3 said:
point me in the LED gauge bulb direction, i have a LED tail light and H4 headlight (no directionals) and im starting to worry because i dont have power in the garage to run  a battery tender, plus my battery is tiny
Nominal Voltage: 12V 
Capacity @ 20 hr rate: 8.5ah 
Case Quantity: 5 
Dimensions: 5.94"L x 2.56W x 3.86H 
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Ok. your fancy new h4 bulb is consuming 1.7 amps more then the stock sealed beam (that's only 1.25amps more with the highbeams on, but that's 2.5 amps more with the H4 highbeam on versus stock without the highbeams) 1157s (the bulbs used in turn and brake lights) consume .7 to 1.9 amps a piece depending on which filament is lit. So in droping 5 (3 of which would be consuming .7amps all the time) 1157 bulbs off your bike and going with a led taillight and no turn signals saves you 2.1amps (not to mention the extra energy saved (almost 2 more amps) when the bilinkers would be blinking or while the brake light would be lit.) after factoring in the extra drain from the H4 bulb you are left with 400ma to run your led tail/brake light. this should be more then enough for even a big light. If you are still worried do what I did: install a headlight cutoff switch so you can turn the headlight off alltogether durring the day that will save you 4.5amps (with the h4) the entire time the light is off versus the low beam being on. it's not legal to have a headlight switch on a '74 or latter bike, but no one has called me on it with my '78 cb400.
 
johnson_steve said:
If you are still worried do what I did: install a headlight cutoff switch so you can turn the headlight off alltogether durring the day that will save you 4.5amps (with the h4) the entire time the light is off versus the low beam being on. it's not legal to have a headlight switch on a '74 or latter bike, but no one has called me on it with my '78 cb400.
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In Georgia, it is illegal to ride without your headlight and taillight on, no matter what. I have my light off when I am starting my bike and letting it warm up. I turn it on when I start riding.
 
In Wisconsin I believe I just have to turn it on half an hour after sunset like the cars. No one seemed to car the cops never bothered me. I was running a total loss electrical system with led everything but the stock sealed beam headlight. this allowed me to hook it up to the tender and charge only 1 or 2 times a week versus everynight when I always ran the headlight. before I added my switch I sometimes misestimated how much juice was in the battery and on my way home i'd loose all my lights; The bike kept right on gowing but all the lights went out!
 
hay guys. was just reading through and was woundering about the led lights.
i what to run led brake light on my cd 175, and was wondering what i have to do to run them.
thanks.
later.
 
oh ya forgot to add that, i think this is a really good idea to write in this thread.
lots of reading and info, helps out alot, very much so for us newbies. smart move.
later.
 
super cafe it all depends on what style leds you watn to go with... if it is just a LED tail light it should be all set up to plug in and roll... if you are going to make your own LED tail light that is where the resister and boosters will come into play, depends on what you want to do...
 
yes, most board style led lighting req a booster to be wired in so that all the LEDS are getting the propper flow and power, and AVR Led booster, is what is used alot with flash lights and crap like that, it is what I would use to brighten up the tail light for the brakes... it is just important that you do not send tooo much juice to them... i belive that it is req when ever you use over 15 LED's...
 
cool guys.
i just want to run a regular led.
this info is very handy to know.
i'll try one from work, and see what happens.
i'll also see if i can get a booster aswell.
but would rather not.
well thanks alots guys for the help and info.
thanks
later.
 
1 led? like a 3mm, 5mm, 10mm... a regular LED will not be enough brother... if you just do one though you will def not need a booster at all... hell i have run up to 20 without a booster and just used resisters to control how much they lit up
 
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