CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Damn. So, I've still got two unknown washers. The baby from before (that is more of a spacer)

Both look like they've lived their entire lives inside the engine (no corrosion)

The new big washer is:

26.5MM ID
40mm OD
1.5mm thick

It doesn't have any rotational wear marks that I could use to find what it mates with. I checked the bulk Honda elements parts I bought from a dude to make sure it wasn't a vehicle cross contamination. That doesn't seem to be the case. I can't find a 26.5mm washer anywhere in the world wide net for this machine.
 

ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
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Cursh said:
Damn. So, I've still got two unknown washers. The baby from before (that is more of a spacer)

Both look like they've lived their entire lives inside the engine (no corrosion)

The new big washer is:

26.5MM ID
40mm OD
1.5mm thick

It doesn't have any rotational wear marks that I could use to find what it mates with. I checked the bulk Honda elements parts I bought from a dude to make sure it wasn't a vehicle cross contamination. That doesn't seem to be the case. I can't find a 26.5mm washer anywhere in the world wide net for this machine.

I haven't gone out and measured so I could be off, but your larger washer/spacer looks a bit like what you get in the package from All Balls as part of one of the steering head bearing kits. I think most of their kits come w/ a couple of those big washers in different thicknesses. Perhaps? Maybe? ???
 

trek97

No Custom Title
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Cursh said:
I've got all the pieces necessary to get this bike back on the road today. Christmas slowed up some serious eBay orders (DAMN YOU JESUSANTA!)

Anyway. I've got two errant washers/spacers that don't appear in the Honda Shop Manual anywhere. I tried putting the larger one behind the clutch basket and it seemed to mess with how the clutch engaged. Any ideas?

Smaller one is:

ID: 10.3mm
OD. 16mm
Thick: 3.5mm

Larger one is:

ID: 18.3mm
OD: 28mm
Thick 1.5mm

<3 you guys. Thanks.

smaller one looks like it came of the O-ring end of the oil pickup tube. Let me think on the lager one a bit.
 

trek97

No Custom Title
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In phish you can see it on the tube...but no part # for it.

11494-281217180736.png
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Thanks Eric. You are correct on both. I hope your bike is apart and you didn't drain the oil just to toss a caliper on that washer for me =)

I also think I figured out what the 26.5mm washer was from. I vaguely recall two washers being between the clutch and block. When I tried to put both washers back there I couldn't fit the snap ring on (no idea why. I haven't cracked the bottom half yet.) Maybe the P.O. put it back there? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Either way, I can't fit the one that matches the wear marks on the crank case (which I wasn't looking to have identified because it was pretty clear it was between the clutch and case). The snap ring won't seat when its on there. I've got the mystery washer in there and everything seems to be working as it should. It slides between the crank case and #2 on the diagram here.

honda-cb360tk0-1975-usa-transmission_bighu0044e7114_4637.gif
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
Cursh said:
Thanks Eric. You are correct on both. I hope your bike is apart and you didn't drain the oil just to toss a caliper on that washer for me =)

Haha, nope. But 360 is coming apart as soon as Rachels 400 is finished.

Sorry no help here for your clutch mystery washer.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I wouldn't worry about oil pump pick up, it works fine.
The only time it could be an issue is if oil level is low, side stand mount is worn and you park on a heavily cambered road.
If you keep oil between the marks and check it plus don't run bike when it's 'laying on it's side' everything is good
I 'countersunk' the holes with a ball end cutter in Dremel on the inside, don't do anything except scrape off burrs inside the drive slots
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
I'm a bit late on this one, but the larger washer might be a thrust washer for the camshaft? Did you have the top end apart?
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Figured out the extra washer.

The one I was installing as the factory spacer between the clutch and the block was a spacer from a threaded bicycle headset. It happened to be the exact same size as the wear marks on the case. It was too thick to allow the circlip to snap into the shaft.

I figured it out when I was rebuilding a bike headset and rcognized the size and thickness.

question
Anyone ever had trouble with spark plugs staying tight in helicoils?

too much context
I’m also having some trouble syncing the carbs. It said that I had bad compression or late valve timing. I took the side covers off to put that oil pickup washer on and install an OEM stator side cover (the one I got ‘on eBay for the clutch side was soooo much nicer than the paper gaskets I picked up from common motor. Figured I’d use the good stuff while I could still find it.)

While the covers were off I had 130 right cyl and 120 left, so that checks out.
Both plugs were a little loose. I had to put helicoils in because I buggered the left and it shot out on a ride back in early 2014. The plugs feel a little looser in them than I’m used to. Same was true of the compression tool, so when they are tight they work fine. Just wondering if I should be using a mild thread locker with the helicoils.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I have no idea how many thousands of Helicoils I've fitted?
If the 'Helicoil', Recoil, or inserts were done right they will be much stronger than original material and plugs will not loosen without using a socket.out
It used to be common practice to Helicoil brand new VW Beetle crankcases so you could use 'top' torque without worrying about pulling studs
If plugs are loosening up you need to tighten them further, if they pull inserts, you did something 'bad'
Threadlock is a REALLY BAD IDEA, do not use any on spark plugs. What will happen is plugs lock to Helicoil which then screws up everything when you try and remove them and inserts mess up whats left of treads in head. (I've had to repair way too many 'fixed' threads)

As for carb sync, should be simple enough if adjuster screw and left / right sections of throttle shaft extensions are more or less parallel. The washers and spring are set properly
You are 'snapping' throttle open then allowing it to snap shut? The sudden open and close allows various parts to align
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
Thanks, PJ. It looks like I wasn’t tightening them down enough. I was worried I was stripping them and stopped before the crush washer set.


I also wasn’t snapping the throttle.


Gonna double check the valves later this week and bench synch the carbs. I’m almost certain I put them way out of whack when I was trying to synch them.
 

Cursh

Loves Stock Airboxes
So, the high pipes were putting too much heat next to the electronic ignition. The wrap seems to have solved that. I also figure out why I had no luck balancing the carbs. The copper crush washer was missing on one side of the exhaust. I’ve replaced both and now I get no flow on the other side. I’m going to pull the carbs again and take a look at them. No idea what it could be. I’ve got a second set of factory carbs so I have jets for days. The diaphragms are both new circa 6 months ago.


I don’t love the copper. I had tan wrap, but it looks like you need to use sealer or your wrap just degrades and falls off. I couldn’t find any sealer that wasn’t colored. I’ve got so,e almond high heat paint and can try to move it back to the natural wrap colorist of room for error there.


Anyway, progress, but still just an idling paperweight.
 

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