pidjones '72 T150V rescue

Hooked up the aux bottle and tried to get some response from her. Kicked long enough (three sessions) to turn the oil pressure light off, but no joy. 80F and humid is hard on this nearing 70 year-old couch potato doing that! Rolled it back in to think, regroup, cool off. Then I remembered - how hard would it be to start at full advance? Yeah, I'd left the washer on the points cam when I set static timing. Tomorrow is a new day, and the rear fender extension finally arrived from China! Looks like very close to a perfect fit.
Know anyone that has a roller starter?
No, but that is an idea. Really, I probably should start tomorrow on checking everything again - timing, points gap, valve lash, etc. Fit the rear fender extension up today, cut the old fender to mate with it and cut the extra brace and its bubble gum welds off. AND made seven tomato cages out of an old roll of dog fencing for the wife's garden. Oh, and that was after kicking it again for about fifteen minutes (with the washer removed from the points cam).
Ok, I think the problem is located. Seems when setting the points, I backed off the valves to ease rotating it. Need to set them back properly so the compression isn't zero on #2 and 3 (and 50 on #1). After church tomorrow that might get attacked.
Actually found the valves very close, and compression was good - UNTIL I INSTALLED THE LIFTER COVERS! Months ago, I had installed caps on the valve stems to hopefully prevent the ends from getting further chewed up. This made the intake adjusters obviously hit the rocker covers, so the square drives were cut off and slots made to adjust them. The exhaust adjusters didn't seem to be hitting - WRONG! They were holding the exhust valves open. The exhaust adjusters have now been pulled and given the same modification.

Did it work? Well, it barks now and although it hasn't stayed running (very hot and humid for the old man to be kicking this afternoon), there is noise and fumes!
After several weeks of trying to set the timing right - finally making noise! I do believe the main problem was bad gas. I had been using some (stabilized) premium non-alcohol that was about six months old. Replaced it with regular (87 octane) non-alcohol. It is a start. I had it running about ten minutes before the video (a little surprised when it started) and it had warmed up well - had good return oil flow but the pressure never got over 80 psi and fell at idle to ~ 20 psi. This is with 15w40 however - usinf thinner oil at first to flush things out. It will get changed to 20W50 before the next start.

I don't know what kind of paint Triumph used on this tank, but it it TOUGH! Been using 100 grit in a DA sander and it is very slow going. Four hours in and only ~1/4 stripped. The seat is mounted and that is pretty satisfying. Used an OIF front hinge on it, and then made a rear hinge from 2" angle iron with a bored - out nut welded to it for pivot. Places the seat right up against the tank, really looks better than photos I've seen of stock setups. Had to grind off the strike and pop-rivet it about 2" back so it engages the latch pin. Fenders are off and will be blasted and primed. Still not sure of the color. Maybe maroon and gold?
After pulling the big dent in the right side (common fork crash - not from this bike), Bondo'd the wound and sprayed with self-etching primer.

dents pulled.jpg
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Tank is now rust-free inside. Two gallons of vinegar, resting in all positions, and five feet of sash chain shaken around. About 24 hours total soak time and it is impressive how nice it looks inside now. Three fresh water flushes and a fourth with a cup of baking soda, filled to the brim, and left to soak. Then a final rinse and drying with vacuum cleaner pulling a vacuum on the main fill spout while air is drawn in through the petcock holes. Lowering the pressure in the tank dries it pretty fast, and can be judged by the tank getting cool until the water evaporates, then it warms. Dumped in about 1/3rd quart of 2T oil and sprayed with fogging oil, sealed it all up, rolled to make sure all had 2T inside, and put it away until paint is acquired and all tins ready for color. Took the headers out today (welded into one ugly piece by a PO using bubble gum, I think). Added my own modern art interpretation to the added tailpiece that had many holes, ground it down, and sprayed with two coats of Rustoleum Barbecue Black. Amazon claims my mufflers will be here Monday. I'm not holding my breath.
One of the two mufflers that I ordered (at the same time) came in from Amazon. The other is due Wednesday along with clamps for the joint. Then I'll be able to hear the engine over the exhaust (hopefully). Not a classic look, but going for function (and cheap).
Mufflers on and done-up. My headers have a 1.5" adapter welded on to each, ending ~1" before the end of the smaller pipe. So, I had ordered 1.5" inlet mufflers, which just butt-up to the pipes. So, had to spin a couple adapters out of aluminum and the used 1.5" clamps to tighten it all together (along with the exhaust springs and loops that came with the muffler). All ready to add oil and fire up to see how it really sounds. If it EVER stops raining.


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Started it up this morning (well, after moving the timing a LOT to get it to start). This is with cheap-o mufflers so that the engine can be heard over the exhaust. Sounded pretty good to me at first, but after it warmed up a bit stared to hear what sounded to me like piston slap. Ignition is probably WAY out of time. Had to actually knock the points cam loose and rotate it clockwise (retard?) maybe 20 degrees to get it to start. Don't know how I got it that far off static timing. At the end, besides moving the idle too low, I think it also ran out of gas. Nice to see it starting to bake the paint on the headers, but it is also leaking badly from rocker box/head joint in the middle and from the head/cylinder joint on left side.
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If it didn't leak, I would be very surprised. My 69 Triumph should be called the Exxon Valdez. Have you thought about changing to an electronic ignition system?
Eh, no more $$ invested in this than necessary. In fact, these are the points that were in it when I bought it. Had to buy condensers and (used) coils, though.
If it doesn't break the bank in oilbill. Looks like it needs cylinders base, head, and rocker box gaskets. I think the only thing NOT leaking is the push rod tubes!
If you give the push rod tubes a bit more time, they will follow along with the rest. LOL! I found my Triumph on it's side this morning. No damage to anything but my wife asked if it slipped on all the oil it leaks out.
Anyone have a comment on the sound? Particularly towards the end I hear a knock that I can't tell if it is rod or piston slap.
And it has to be way out of time as I had to blindly rotate the points cam on the tapper four times to find a spot where it would start. And that after I thought it was spot-on static timed.
That's a lot of gear whine which is presumably the straight cut timing gears. Unusually loud - but that could just be the frequency caught on the phone or camera.

Sounds like it's running on two cylinders at the end which might explain the rough sound. It should tickover much better than that with a gentle head shake.

Looking good so far
Thanks, teazer. That's two that have commented on a cylinder dropping near the end. I think it was running out of fuel. The timing gears are on the side towards the camera and the points cover is off (I was moving the points cam all over to get it to fire). The whole top end will have to come off to correct oil leaks and replace some PO fastener issues.
Ran her again this morning with timing moved to at least get a timing mark in the window with the strobe (although it is A and I have GG serial number). Sounded and responded much better. The problem sounds that I heard before are gone.
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