pidjones '72 T150V rescue

Decided to attack the oil leaks (all seem to be from the head, rocker box, cylinder base and of course PRTs). Came apart fairly easy. One cylinder to case stud was obviously stripped and just shoved back in the hole. All four of the end head studs were only screwed into the cylinders about half-way. Discovered that was because they were Helicoiled (Okay) and the swarf was still jamed under them. After spray with brake cleaner and 100 psi air, all clear and the studs screw down all the way. But, the worst was when I turned the head over to clean the sealing surface. What? Why? How? Who? When? the gouges are about .012-.010" tapering to .004" on both sides. Looks like a screwdriver was pounded in to get the head off - but there are no corresponding scars on the top of the cylinders. Photo was taken after a bit of rubbing with wet 400 grit on plate glass.
IMG_20220824_160511999.jpg
 
It is a Triumph after all, so leaks are to be expected. That's a bit tongue in cheak. They can be made oil tight but it takes attention to the little details which you do. Those gouges are a PIA though. Do you have a local machine shop that can skim .020 off the head? and if you do that, can they cut the seats and clean up the valve faces.
I'd suggest a port job and megacycle cams but that's probably not what you intended for it. With a simple port clean up and decent valve seats it should be able to hit 125 or so (on a closed road...) and would be more perky everywhere.
 
If I get the (*&%*& thing to run again and not leave huge puddles I'll be happy. Triumph forums caution against skimming as it will change the (already iffy) valve geometry too much, and there is very little to spare above the pistons. Maybe with a second (thinner) head gasket added?
 
I would agree that taking a mm or more off is a whole different deal but if you get the seats cut, that will sink teh valves slightly - by as much as the head is skimmed and we are talking the smallest amount just to make it seal properly. I would not recommend using more than one head gasket.

Check with COMETIC to see if they have a suitable replacement gasket available. Their head gaskets are much better than OEM.
 
If it was a high dollar engine the imperfections would be filled with weld or metal spray and milled back to specification. I'm going to make a guess that a decent used head would run $400-500. I like Teazer's idea about machining the valve seats and then milling the head.
 
If it was a bike worth the extra time and effort, but add in the valve guides should probably be replaced (always recommended on these even at very liw miles), and with milled heads the PRTs would have to be skimmed or $$$ adjustable tubes swapped in. With all of that, the bottom end really should be thoroughly gone through. This is not a restoration - triples just haven't had the value to warrant that. It has GL1000 headlight and left switches. All re-wired to negative ground with Sparck reg/rect. Bodged-together fenders from several sources. The seat is OIF (but fits nicely) and a PO laced in a 16" rear wheel. At least the tank I've found is correct, although repaired from the common triple tree crash and has extra holes drilled in the back flange for unknown reasons.

If it gets back to running well without (most of) the oil leaks, I'll call it finished. If it were a pre-OIF Bonnie it would be worth the extra time and expense. But for a triple that has seen very rough treatment, getting it back on the road reliable is the goal.
 
Getting ready to put the jugs back on. Decided to use the pull center piston method. While preparing for that, discovered the oil control ring on #1 frozen about 1/2 way around. Carefully removed the piston from the rod and used a small cut-off nail with pliers to push through one of the holes and get it loose. Took all rings off of it and cleaned them and the grooves, then reassembled. #2 came out cleanly and the big end bearing looks great.

Took so long getting this far that I called it a day. Tomorrow is church-related tasks. Maybe Wednesday?
 
Slowly getting there. Head is only on with the four nuts finger-tight but the jugs are torqued. (Rocker boxes just setting there.)
Head on.jpg
 
Well, it's back together (at least, as much as it was before the "leak fix and other joys" period). And of course, the weather takes this opportunity to demonstrate what the rainforests are like.
 
Finally getting around to mixing paint for it. I have very light green/grey in mind. Very light, very, very. Everything that I found was just pale green or still too dark, so bought a quart of white lacquer and began mixing my own. Not enough green yet, so more of that on order. A small test batch looks just how I want it, though. Tank, side covers, and both fenders will get the color. Had considered an accent of dark maroon, but lately thinking not.
 
Left side cover finally came in from Glass From The Past a couple weeks ago. Then, the Epoxy came in to patch the pulled-through mounting holes on the right side-cover. Ground around and wiped well with acetone, then a layer of epoxy, layer of fiberglass cloth, layer of epoxy, layer of cloth, final layer of epoxy. All bedded in nicely with no air bubbles seen. A bit of progress, at least!
 
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Covers are now filled and sanded as well as the fenders speedo cable purchased and installed. Forecast for next week has several days over 50F (at least one over 60F) and no rain! Maybe I can finally get some lipstick on this pig!
 
Our church was down to about 24 average due to circumstances beyond our control (but fully in Gods plan!) Turns out another congregation with like doctrine really needed facilities for worship, so we merged. Last two Sundays, we averaged 135!

In motorcycle related news, - I painted the tins for the T150V today! Initially hoped to just get color on the tunnel and bottom of the tank, but it was going so well that all of the color is on with two good coats. Everything in the garage (with doors open) right now to cure for handling, and tomorrow the parts will go upstairs to my den for a couple weeks full cure (Duplicolor lacquer). Then I'll take them back to the shed for a couple coats of 2k clear. Color is looking spot-on to my wishes. The only boo-boo that I can detect is on the tank, where I let it touch my shirt while carrying it back to the garage. Very mild, and some of it seems to be self-healing. I would consider a bit of wet sanding it, but - it's right where the badge goes, so shouldn't be visible!

I'll probably not be so happy tomorrow. The knee is already complaing about being up and around on it so much today. Got an Ortho appointment on the 10th.
 
Frenders and side covers are in my den on the second story of our house to keep them warm and the lacquer curing. The tank had a small place that I was not pleased with, so it was wet sanded and yesterday after church (and a very enjoyable lunch with our minister) it received a good coat of lacquer in that area. It will move up from the garage to the den tomorrow. I have located the tank badges and bolts and checked for fit. Need to pick up 10-32 SS flatheads for the badges, but they should be in stock at our local Ace hardware.
 
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