pidjones '72 T150V rescue

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Decided to attack the oil leaks (all seem to be from the head, rocker box, cylinder base and of course PRTs). Came apart fairly easy. One cylinder to case stud was obviously stripped and just shoved back in the hole. All four of the end head studs were only screwed into the cylinders about half-way. Discovered that was because they were Helicoiled (Okay) and the swarf was still jamed under them. After spray with brake cleaner and 100 psi air, all clear and the studs screw down all the way. But, the worst was when I turned the head over to clean the sealing surface. What? Why? How? Who? When? the gouges are about .012-.010" tapering to .004" on both sides. Looks like a screwdriver was pounded in to get the head off - but there are no corresponding scars on the top of the cylinders. Photo was taken after a bit of rubbing with wet 400 grit on plate glass.
IMG_20220824_160511999.jpg
 

teazer

Over 10,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
It is a Triumph after all, so leaks are to be expected. That's a bit tongue in cheak. They can be made oil tight but it takes attention to the little details which you do. Those gouges are a PIA though. Do you have a local machine shop that can skim .020 off the head? and if you do that, can they cut the seats and clean up the valve faces.
I'd suggest a port job and megacycle cams but that's probably not what you intended for it. With a simple port clean up and decent valve seats it should be able to hit 125 or so (on a closed road...) and would be more perky everywhere.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
If I get the (*&%*& thing to run again and not leave huge puddles I'll be happy. Triumph forums caution against skimming as it will change the (already iffy) valve geometry too much, and there is very little to spare above the pistons. Maybe with a second (thinner) head gasket added?
 

teazer

Over 10,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
I would agree that taking a mm or more off is a whole different deal but if you get the seats cut, that will sink teh valves slightly - by as much as the head is skimmed and we are talking the smallest amount just to make it seal properly. I would not recommend using more than one head gasket.

Check with COMETIC to see if they have a suitable replacement gasket available. Their head gaskets are much better than OEM.
 

Rider52

Over 1,000 Posts
If it was a high dollar engine the imperfections would be filled with weld or metal spray and milled back to specification. I'm going to make a guess that a decent used head would run $400-500. I like Teazer's idea about machining the valve seats and then milling the head.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
If it was a bike worth the extra time and effort, but add in the valve guides should probably be replaced (always recommended on these even at very liw miles), and with milled heads the PRTs would have to be skimmed or $$$ adjustable tubes swapped in. With all of that, the bottom end really should be thoroughly gone through. This is not a restoration - triples just haven't had the value to warrant that. It has GL1000 headlight and left switches. All re-wired to negative ground with Sparck reg/rect. Bodged-together fenders from several sources. The seat is OIF (but fits nicely) and a PO laced in a 16" rear wheel. At least the tank I've found is correct, although repaired from the common triple tree crash and has extra holes drilled in the back flange for unknown reasons.

If it gets back to running well without (most of) the oil leaks, I'll call it finished. If it were a pre-OIF Bonnie it would be worth the extra time and expense. But for a triple that has seen very rough treatment, getting it back on the road reliable is the goal.
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Getting ready to put the jugs back on. Decided to use the pull center piston method. While preparing for that, discovered the oil control ring on #1 frozen about 1/2 way around. Carefully removed the piston from the rod and used a small cut-off nail with pliers to push through one of the holes and get it loose. Took all rings off of it and cleaned them and the grooves, then reassembled. #2 came out cleanly and the big end bearing looks great.

Took so long getting this far that I called it a day. Tomorrow is church-related tasks. Maybe Wednesday?
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Slowly getting there. Head is only on with the four nuts finger-tight but the jugs are torqued. (Rocker boxes just setting there.)
Head on.jpg
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Well, it's back together (at least, as much as it was before the "leak fix and other joys" period). And of course, the weather takes this opportunity to demonstrate what the rainforests are like.
 

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