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Plate attached, road grime acquired! I took it for a few test rides, but the roads are still damp at best, and the temperature outside is still quite cold. I had one moment where the back end stepped out a bit when I gave it too much coming out of a slow corner, that was enough to make me VERY cautious for the rest of the ride. I won't be able to actually give it some stick until at least March. But, in the times that I could get on it, I was very impressed. It is VERY quick. It doesn't care what gear you are in or how low the revs are, it just pulls. It is savage. Just what I wanted.
Note that the zip-tie telltale shows that it very nearly bottoms out. This was a pretty normal ride with no wheelies or panic stops, and it is still only 20mm from the end of the fork bottom.
Shifter is sorted. I took the stock shift pedal and bent it in a vice to shorten it some, and removed some material from the sprocket cover to eliminate interference. It is around 140mm on centre from the peg, whereas my CD175 is 130mm. I think this is just about right, it feels good under my boot and has good action. Last two pictures show how close it is to the frame rail and the sprocket cover in up and down positions.
New idea for the exhaust. I took two of the cheapo exhaust db killer inserts and turned them back to back, and made a connector between them. Now the exhaust must enter the perforated tube, go through steel mesh (kitchen scrubby) go back through the perf tube, and then exit the muffler. In the diagram the black lines are perf tube and the orange lines are solid. I tried it out and it IS quiet, but there must be a ton of back pressure. I'll see on the next test ride if it responds ok.
New idea for rear brake. The pedal originally pivoted around the footpeg, and the mounting location of the master resulted in an actuating lever that was too long, and the brake had a wooden feel with almost no travel. I could either move the master or move the pivot, I chose move the pivot. Instead of pivoting around the footpeg, now it will pivot around the boss shown. This will make the actuating lever 35mm, which matches what it was on the KTM.
The threaded boss that was made (by my neighbour with his new lathe) overlapped with the frame tube by about 50%, so something needed to be done. Steps as follows:
1. Make a pig's ear of the frame
2. Weld it up and hide the shame.
Looks fine in the end, really. A little weld dressing and paint and no one will ever notice.
Make darn sure all of the exhaust parts are secure. I found that a GL1000 will rip 3/16 pop rivets right out if they are restricting it. The two big washers mounted 1" behind the baffle in my shorties are laying in a ditch somewhere.