bought! now a project!

imtyson

Been Around the Block
does anybody have any suggestions on how to get the front left spacer in? its space is so little i cant seem to get the darn thing in? and i dont want to bend the frame. any suggestions?

also the gas tank situation.

i have two options

1. i bring the gas tank to a radiator shop from what i heard so they can strip it of all the paint. gives me a fresh start, and its less work.

2. i can try to clean the inside with whatever the previous owner put on the inside. have no idea what it is and how i plan to get it out. beside paint stripper...? does anyone have any suggestions?

thats its for now i have all my parts ordered from dime city. order should be here next week. and should see the bike running in the next two weeks if everything goes as planned!! woohoo! 2 years of waiting !
 

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Brodie

Gold Coast, Queensland
DTT SUPPORTER
Get that tank acid dipped at a radiator shop. Last thing you want is all that crap in your carbs.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
i have decided to dip my tank like suggested.

so far the progress is coming along. all i need left is

1.set up tires to hubs

2.get tank done

3. hook up wiring

then i should be getting the bike on the road

does anyone know if you need to keep the flimsy metal that is hooked up the the choke?
 

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imtyson

Been Around the Block
bought! now a project!

First time lacing rims. TUrned out to be very fun.
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Anyone know a good place in Portland to put tires on rims?

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2_DONE_THE_TON

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
The flimsy part on the carb should be the choke actuator for the other carb which has no choke lever.
The choke works this way:
If you take a look into the carb there are rotationable parts which 'block' the air stream to the engine,by blocking this air stream more fuel enrichening the air fuel mixture-- advantage for cold starts.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
I was just wondering if it would be alright to just have the choke on one side of the carbs, but i'm guessing its inefficient.
thanks for the response ryan.
 

grandpaul

Author, "Old Bikes"
DTT SUPPORTER
DTT BOTM WINNER
Just stumbled into this thread, and only read the first part up to the first pix.

I have only one thing to say:

AHRMA Novice Historic Production Lightweight.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
Before you put the carbs back on the bike check if the choke mechanism works properly,opens and closes,it should be able to close and open entirely.
Then check if the carbs leak.
I do this by simlly connecting the carbs to a auxiliary tank with gasoline.i dont do this on the bike cuz its messy and you dont want the gas to mess with any paint on the bike.
Connect the tank then switch on the flow,of the carbs leak there is a needle/seat problem.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
Thanks for the tips Ryan. The carbs don't show a problem with the choke but as for leaking I will try to get that sorted out once I get everything situated.


I went to motorcycle wheel and tire off of Alberta in Portland to get my rims trued and mounted. He's charging me 20-80 for truing each wheel and 20 for mounting each. I'm not sure if I messed up on telling him the side of my front brake. Does it matter if the brake side is on left or right?

All in all he seems really knowledgeable about vintage bikes, but definitely grouchy and short tempered lol.


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grandpaul

Author, "Old Bikes"
DTT SUPPORTER
DTT BOTM WINNER
On a disc, it's preferable to have the caliper mounted BEHIND the fork leg.

On a single-leading-shoe drum brake, they have a specific direction of rotation.

Beyond that, almost any combination CAN be made to work, but may end up giving you problems, some potentially serious.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
bought! now a project!

Sweet @grandpaul. I went back to tire shop to make sure I got the order correct for brakes and direction of tires just to make sure.

Well I finally got all motor mount put in finally! The left front spacer was a female dog to get in. front forks got rebuilt with new fork oil and bushings. I only did minor cleaning to them since i like the motor and most chrome parts to have a vintage look. They did get a clear coat though.

Next up is get tank hot tanked at macs radiator shop hope they don't charge too much .

I also want to buy a new throttle cAble since I forgot to order it with my last shipment. Sighhh. Well here are some pics of it.
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I plan to make my bike like this in future hopefully.
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imtyson

Been Around the Block
any body know where there is a how to for the clutch construction? looking at the manual is kind of confusing and i don't want to mess it up.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
Put mounted my old coils back on bike,mounted the bracket for my rear sets, and mounted my headlight on bike. I think it looks amazing. I can't sit to ride this thing.
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Tomorrow I hopefully will work out wiring, clean oil filter change oil, work on clutch cable where the cover goes, and hopefully my tires are finished so u can mount them.
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do u guys know if I'm missing anything ?


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imtyson

Been Around the Block
I'm working on my clutch crank case cover and was wondering if the weird double sided screw, screws into the ridged circular thing. I'm having a hard time getting the screw to go though. I don't wanna force it and strip it. So any answers would help! Thanks.
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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
It's held in place with a nut on the outside and the inside provides a race for the bearings that should be included in the second pic. The tension is used to adjust the pressure the clutch rod places on the clutch.
 

imtyson

Been Around the Block
Okay so the screw shouldn't be screwed on the inside. It should just sit on top. Should the sequence be like the picture shown?
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imtyson

Been Around the Block
that is the exact picture that i followed. but shouldnt #6 have the screwdriver side facing away from engine so that you can adjust it from the outside?
 

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