"Tangerine Dream" / Glemseck - KZ750
- Thread starter beachcomber
- Start date
...that sounds like a plan
Cant recall any talk of wiring?
I'm going down the " Daylight MOT " route. Apart from the modified engine loom and a horn / brake light for self preservation the only other wiring required will be for Nitrous, pumps, etc. - all stand alone circuits.
I'm still waiting for Ingnitech to get back to me with details of their Race ECU which has facility for various retards for when the NOS is squeezed. We are having minor translation difficulties at the moment, so I've decided to leave it until the rest of the wiring circuit is finalised and I can send them a wiring diagram.
I was going with the MSD or Dynatech units, but they can't give me a definitive answer as to which unit I need. Pity as I am very familiar with MSD as used on my Drag Racers.
Regrettably electronics is NOT my strong subject !
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Ah yes, the dark art of electronics.....I have trust issues with black boxes and gaily coloured wires disappearing inside to do God knows what in there ??
Last edited:
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Seems the MSD pdf file has all the info needed for it, and the MC-4 will handle all variables. https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...FjABegQIGxAB&usg=AOvVaw1vXwPMsZDQgBwV3NUNRAe5
No way Doc ... the Ignitech system is around £200 and will work perfectly with my existing ignition delivery system and coils. It has the same retard facilities as the MSD. The only issue is that Ignitech requires wiring loom diagram + pictures of the OEM components and connections. Of course I don't have that !
They have been very helpful up until now, but I think some details have been lost in translation [ they are Czech ! ]
There is no rush of course as the engine isn't even built yet, but I just want to get a system lined up.
Next stage in getting the tank surfaced. The pix are for newcomers who might find the process useful.
Oh yes MT, the boring bit ! Not made easier by the fact that I am using 4 year old filler and it's not as soft and creamy as it once was ! With over 3 kilos left, I can't afford to be choosy and throw it away.
Teazer, here is the comms between Ignitech and myself - they have asked for information so they can make the system to suit.
My problem is that electronics is alien to me and I do not want to order the wrong item !
IGNITECH - Jiří Krejzl
Hello,
Could you send some information regarding original ignition system ?
Example for information here : http://www.ignitech.cz/en/o-nas/poptavka
Regards.
Jiri Krejzl
IGNITECH
To: ignitech@ignitech.cz
Subject: Purchase of DCCDIP-2
Gentlemen,
I am looking for a simple electronic unit with retard facility [ I am running Nitrous ] for my 1982 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin race / road bike.
The bike is built in the exact style of a 1960’s Café Racer and will be used on the road and for mild Drag Racing competition.
I have a 2 > 1 exhaust and a Weber 40DCOE carb., running a 40bhp – 60bhp shot of Nitrous.
From your specs I think the DCCDIP-2 unit will be OK.
Please confirm and let me have the price in euros including carriage to the UK.
I can pay by Bank Transfer or Paypal. I can use “friends and family” if you can accept that method.
Best regards
TJ
TJ Sands
Teazer, here is the comms between Ignitech and myself - they have asked for information so they can make the system to suit.
My problem is that electronics is alien to me and I do not want to order the wrong item !
IGNITECH - Jiří Krejzl
Hello,
Could you send some information regarding original ignition system ?
Example for information here : http://www.ignitech.cz/en/o-nas/poptavka
Regards.
Jiri Krejzl
IGNITECH
To: ignitech@ignitech.cz
Subject: Purchase of DCCDIP-2
Gentlemen,
I am looking for a simple electronic unit with retard facility [ I am running Nitrous ] for my 1982 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin race / road bike.
The bike is built in the exact style of a 1960’s Café Racer and will be used on the road and for mild Drag Racing competition.
I have a 2 > 1 exhaust and a Weber 40DCOE carb., running a 40bhp – 60bhp shot of Nitrous.
From your specs I think the DCCDIP-2 unit will be OK.
Please confirm and let me have the price in euros including carriage to the UK.
I can pay by Bank Transfer or Paypal. I can use “friends and family” if you can accept that method.
Best regards
TJ
TJ Sands
Fortunately for most of us it doesn't matter if we can't tell a proton from a protein. Let the designer worry about electronics and firmware. What we have to do is to decide what we want the unit to do and then look through the descriptions ( the pdf instructions) and download the software to see what options it offers.
You can download any of their software and open the file. It will say "COM error" because there is no ECU attached, so close that and the main screen will open. Feel free to change the timing curve, inputs and outputs. You are not writing that data to an actual ECU, so you can't harm anything.
Simple things first. You don't want a single channel (cylinder) system and don't need a 4 channel (3 or 4 cylinders). You want a two channel system that can drive 2 double outlet coils.
I would suggest using a DC CDI which means what it says. Remember the Hitachi, Motoplat, etc units on two stoke race bikes? They were AC CDIs and just used the power generated by the "alternator" porting of the unit so they could run without a battery. DC versions use 12v DC to charge the capacitors. That's what the MSD unit does.
Looking at the DC-CDI-IP2, it has two user inputs. One could be used as a start limiter for drag/sprint races and the other could be set up for RETARD. That's not a reference to the user, but the fixed amount that you want to retard the ignition when that button is pushed. So for example if you want say 10 degrees of retard when you hold the nitrous button, wire it to both teh nitrous servo and pin 8 or 19 of the ECU.
They have more advanced units with ability to switch to a second ignition map if that's a better way to run it, or with powerjet controls and stepper motor servos and so on. You could also use a TPS if you are feeling adventurous but it's not necessary. I'd use a simple throttle wide open Nitrous switch on the throttle so it only works wide open and separate that out from the ignition controls.
You also have the choice of two pickups and a reluctor with one single "trigger" or use a single pickup and a twin trigger reluctor. The difference is that if the crank is not 100% in phase you have different ways to compensate. Two pickups are like two points - adjust each to suit. Single pickup needs you to tweak the software curve to add or subtract a few degrees to one cylinder. I'd go with two pickups.
See if you can find someone close to you that has an Ignitech so they can walk you through some of the choices
You can download any of their software and open the file. It will say "COM error" because there is no ECU attached, so close that and the main screen will open. Feel free to change the timing curve, inputs and outputs. You are not writing that data to an actual ECU, so you can't harm anything.
Simple things first. You don't want a single channel (cylinder) system and don't need a 4 channel (3 or 4 cylinders). You want a two channel system that can drive 2 double outlet coils.
I would suggest using a DC CDI which means what it says. Remember the Hitachi, Motoplat, etc units on two stoke race bikes? They were AC CDIs and just used the power generated by the "alternator" porting of the unit so they could run without a battery. DC versions use 12v DC to charge the capacitors. That's what the MSD unit does.
Looking at the DC-CDI-IP2, it has two user inputs. One could be used as a start limiter for drag/sprint races and the other could be set up for RETARD. That's not a reference to the user, but the fixed amount that you want to retard the ignition when that button is pushed. So for example if you want say 10 degrees of retard when you hold the nitrous button, wire it to both teh nitrous servo and pin 8 or 19 of the ECU.
They have more advanced units with ability to switch to a second ignition map if that's a better way to run it, or with powerjet controls and stepper motor servos and so on. You could also use a TPS if you are feeling adventurous but it's not necessary. I'd use a simple throttle wide open Nitrous switch on the throttle so it only works wide open and separate that out from the ignition controls.
You also have the choice of two pickups and a reluctor with one single "trigger" or use a single pickup and a twin trigger reluctor. The difference is that if the crank is not 100% in phase you have different ways to compensate. Two pickups are like two points - adjust each to suit. Single pickup needs you to tweak the software curve to add or subtract a few degrees to one cylinder. I'd go with two pickups.
See if you can find someone close to you that has an Ignitech so they can walk you through some of the choices
Thanx for that Teazer.
There'a guy in Germany that runs Ignitech on his KZ750 Twin, but we have translation issues using Google ! I can't afford to get it wrong. I have asked another German pal whose English is pretty good to have a go for me. As it happens he has a Czech guy working for him .... so between us all we might get there !
The start retard and NOS squeeze retard are all I need
There'a guy in Germany that runs Ignitech on his KZ750 Twin, but we have translation issues using Google ! I can't afford to get it wrong. I have asked another German pal whose English is pretty good to have a go for me. As it happens he has a Czech guy working for him .... so between us all we might get there !
The start retard and NOS squeeze retard are all I need
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Beachy...just spotted this paint job on a build on here by HerrDeacon
link: https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/deacons-cb350-back-at-it.12053/page-14
link: https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/deacons-cb350-back-at-it.12053/page-14
Bloody hell ....... better than Photoshop.
Thanx for the headsup, not sure how I missed that first time around.
In one of the pix it looks like the stripes will continue on over the fairing, which was my plan too. I've asked if there are any finished pix of the fairing.
Thanx again.
Final knock down of the rough filler today and heavy coat of primer filler.
Then it's out with the knifing stopper and a Satin Black guide coat for final surfacing.
The annoying thing is that it was all surfaced before my pal glassed in the mounting brackets !! He used so much glass / resin that the heat reaction during curing caused more ripples than the North Sea ! Ah well .... practice for the 1/2 fairing !!
Thought I'd make you all jealous of my hi-tech "spray booth" !!
Then it's out with the knifing stopper and a Satin Black guide coat for final surfacing.
The annoying thing is that it was all surfaced before my pal glassed in the mounting brackets !! He used so much glass / resin that the heat reaction during curing caused more ripples than the North Sea ! Ah well .... practice for the 1/2 fairing !!
Thought I'd make you all jealous of my hi-tech "spray booth" !!
Thanx MT. I'm a bit out of practice with filling / surfacing and I'm dead chuffed it's come out so well after only 3 passes.
Of course it will be a whole new ball game once the Satin Black guide coat goes on, but at least it's really close now.
Thanx to NR I got a preview of what my stripes will look like - albeit that was Red on White. I was a bit concerned that the stripe would be too wide for the seat, but the 7R seat is a bit wider and of course I have no rear light to worry about - just the smaller fuel filler cap.
Of course it will be a whole new ball game once the Satin Black guide coat goes on, but at least it's really close now.
Thanx to NR I got a preview of what my stripes will look like - albeit that was Red on White. I was a bit concerned that the stripe would be too wide for the seat, but the 7R seat is a bit wider and of course I have no rear light to worry about - just the smaller fuel filler cap.
Tank finally ready for the first of the Silver topcoats. Final Black guide coat, final primer and flat off with 600 and diluted washing up liquid.
I've ordered premium thinners for the actual finish coats and lacquer, but for now I'll use the "Trade" thinners.
I've ordered premium thinners for the actual finish coats and lacquer, but for now I'll use the "Trade" thinners.
Hmmmmm - got a heavy ground coat of Silver on the tank today ..... not feeling the love at the moment.
Anyway, it's not a huge panel so I'll persevere and see what it looks like when the flow coat goes on.
Stand by for a possible left turn Clyde.
Anyway, it's not a huge panel so I'll persevere and see what it looks like when the flow coat goes on.
Stand by for a possible left turn Clyde.
DTT Bike Of The Month Gallery
-
3DogNate
-
sbaugz
-
trek97
-
JAGspeed
-
3DogNate
-
doombug
-
MrMister
-
scott s
-
goldy
-
jordandogtown
-
canyoncarver
-
Kanticoy
-
MiniatureNinja
-
-
Hurco550
-
Rusnak_322
-
-
bikeWillem
-
doc_rot
-
trek97
-
Noddy78
-
ridesolo
-
Bevelheadmhr
-
MrMister
DTT Light or Dark
